Rockfax Description
The zig-zag cracks give a great little route. © Rockfax
FA. G.R.Fiddles, A.T.Braddock 1959.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Jonathan Hall | 14 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Top out is v dirty still, needs digging out | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Top out is v dirty still, needs digging out |
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astrange | 13 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Well protected and nice climbing. Top out not so nice - very dirty! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Well protected and nice climbing. Top out not so nice - very dirty! |
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smudge | 10 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Top of the crag is f@*d. I’d heard about it happening a number of years ago, but now you have to top out over a tonne of loose earth (or mud after the rain). Shame because the route is good. I’ll help cleaning the crag but it needs to be done thoughtfully. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Top of the crag is f@&#*d. I’d heard about it happening a number of years ago, but now you have to top out over a tonne of loose earth (or mud after the rain). Shame because the route is good. I’ll help cleaning the crag but it needs to be done thoughtfully. |
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Craig Samuels | 17 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Early season a lot of dirt on some of the holds. Needs more traffic to tidy the route up. Top also very loose soil and vegetation. Red ants still present! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Early season a lot of dirt on some of the holds. Needs more traffic to tidy the route up. Top also very loose soil and vegetation. Red ants still present! |
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Dave Garnett | 30 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Very dirty top-out at the moment. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very dirty top-out at the moment. |
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Rob M | 19 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Be gentile with the bat's, they keep the midges down! ;) seriously though they're always there, in the horizontal usually. I keep off this route now (done it twice). So many other routes at this cliff are neglected & they're of no less quality than this one. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Be gentile with the bat's, they keep the midges down! ;) seriously though they're always there, in the horizontal usually. I keep off this route now (done it twice). So many other routes at this cliff are neglected & they're of no less quality than this one. |
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greedo | 13 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Look out for bats sleeping In the bigger crack!. Don't disturb them, remember how cranky you feel when woken up???? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Look out for bats sleeping In the bigger crack!. Don't disturb them, remember how cranky you feel when woken up???? |
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Rob Davies | 12 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: There are bolt anchors above the muddy ledge. Assuming they don't get chopped, it's best to use these a belay then abseil, as using a lower-off drags the ropes through loads of mud. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There are bolt anchors above the muddy ledge. Assuming they don't get chopped, it's best to use these a belay then abseil, as using a lower-off drags the ropes through loads of mud. |
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Alan James - Rockfax | 21 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Excellent. The Tree root in the belay is dead although it still feels solid enough but won’t be for much longer. Options at descent without it are not pleasant. Hack up the loose rocky grass to a big tree is maybe the best option. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Excellent. The Tree root in the belay is dead although it still feels solid enough but won’t be for much longer. Options at descent without it are not pleasant. Hack up the loose rocky grass to a big tree is maybe the best option. |
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Fidget | 14 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: Bats still seemed to be there this week too! I enjoyed this although got pumped which I didn't expect. The top out was the scariest bit as the grass was so dry! Didn't find there to be much (any) polish at all after the first couple of moves, I even smeared quite happily (two things I normally avoid - polish and smearing). | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bats still seemed to be there this week too! I enjoyed this although got pumped which I didn't expect. The top out was the scariest bit as the grass was so dry! Didn't find there to be much (any) polish at all after the first couple of moves, I even smeared quite happily (two things I normally avoid - polish and smearing). |
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Skyfall | 4 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: Thought this was a really nice route and towards upper end of VS, though mostly due to the polish. And judging by the smell and squeaking coming from the crack higher up, the bats are still in situ. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Thought this was a really nice route and towards upper end of VS, though mostly due to the polish. And judging by the smell and squeaking coming from the crack higher up, the bats are still in situ. |
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Chris the Tall | 2 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: The bats are deep in the upper crack and can easily be avoided. Plus they don't bite, unlike the ants at the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The bats are deep in the upper crack and can easily be avoided. Plus they don't bite, unlike the ants at the top. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Popular)