Climbs 65
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 315m a.s.l
Faces E
Samuel James-Louwerse at the top of Mitre Crack (VS) at Aldery Cliff. © Alan James
In 2017 some misguided climbers chopped and poisoned the trees on the crag. This caused some unpleasant erosion on the upper sections where the trees used to provide useful belays, abseil points and hold the ledges together. In August 2020 fixed belays were arranged at critical points above the routes but usually below the upper sections of the original climbs. Virtually all routes now finish at a fixed belay. In keeping with the traditional ethic at this crag it is hoped that these will be used for belaying on and abseil descents and not for top-roping. Some can be used for lower-off but please avoid repeated top-roping.
Aldery Cliff is situated just to the southeast of the tiny village of Earl Sterndale - the crag is sometimes referred to as 'Earl Sterndale'. From the A515 south of Buxton, follow signs for Longnor. Earl Sterndale is signed off these roads. The crag is about 500m south of the village, right next to the road, and you can park in the area in front of the crag. Please make sure you close the gate at all times.
New bolted anchors were installed in August 2020 (following discussion and agreement at Peak Area meetings,) to replace tree lower offs which had been removed during unsanctioned work in 2017. These anchors are setup to use for belay, abseil or lower off; with two stainless steel resin bolts, connected with stainless chain to a ring. As with all fixed anchors, if multiple people are going to climb a route and lower off or top rope, climbers should use their own carabiners to attach the rope to the anchor, with only the last climber re-threading and using the ring to prevent wear to the in situ equipment.
A list of the anchors and the routes they serve (in Peak Limestone North) is below, with the numbers relating to the marked up crag image in photos:
1: Best Forgotten Groove to Therianthropic (routes 4-6) 2: Jackorner to November Wall (routes 7-10) 3: Carmal to Rentaghost (routes 11-13) 4: The Arete to The Cardinal (routes 14-17) 5: Carmen to Carmen Mirander (routes 22-23) 6: Carmen Mirander to Lizzie (routes 24-26) 7: Ash Tree Arete to Ash Tree Slab (routes 27-28) 8: The first pitches of Central Arete to Clothesline (routes 22-36) 9: The Fly to Burst (routes 37-39) 10: The Bender to Terrace Wall Direct (routes 40-41) 11: Right Arete to A Pig in the Middle (routes 43-45)
Other considerations:
Reason: Other
Bats have been known to use Mitre Crack as a roost in late spring/early summer. It is very obvious when they are present due to the noisy chattering coming from the depths of the crack - please avoid this route when the bats are present.
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