Rockfax Description
THE classic winter route of North Wales
1) 3, 40m. Climb the gully, passing a narrow chimney-like section (peg) to a cave belay where the gully widens
2) 4, 15m. Make an awkward move right around a jutting nose to gain a traverse line rightwards to a belay beneath a groove
3) 5, 30m. Climb a thin technical pitch up a groove in the slab and traverse left to the large cave belay in the main gully
4) 6, 12m. Step out right onto the thin and technical slab, and balance up this (1 or 2 pegs) to gain the gully above
5) 4, 20m. Go up the gully and grapple round a steep chockstone boulder
6) 1, 100m. Follow the easy gully to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Great Welsh classic. Crux is rock slab exiting R-wards of large cave. Peg usually provides good protection for the hard moves. Direct finish on R wall of gully adds to overall balance, with more excellent climbing.
Cold Climbs , Calum Muskett's Top Ten Welsh Winter , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Cold Climbs (slimmed down)
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Grade: V ***
(Y Lliwedd)