Rockfax Description
The hardest route on the towers - further work of the Steger-Wiesinger pair - has continuous difficulties and should not be underestimated. Start as for the Normal Route.
1-2) As for the Normal Route but, at the second belay, follow the ledge right for 8m to a long crack, directly below the large roof in the upper third of the tower.
3) V, 30m. Climb the steep crack and a bulge to the stance.
4) VI-, 25m. Climb in the continuation crack, which is steep and sustained, then move right on a narrow ledge to climb a parallel crack. Before the roof, cross back left with a delicate traverse then climb direct to a stance below and just to the right of the left side of the roof.
5) VI, 25m. Pass the roof on its left then take a steep grey corner.
6) VI-, 25m. Continue up the corner and pull through a bulge to reach easier ground and a ledge 5m below the summit. Climb easily to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
South Face, Winkler Tower. Only four pitches in length but at a consistent level of difficulty. The top pitch in particular is stunning.
Steger, Wiesinger, Mase Dari, Paluselli 1929.
Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel
User | Date | Notes | ||
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HannahC | 22 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Could not locate fixed gear P2 belay (start of P3) ample trad gear to build your own belay. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Could not locate fixed gear P2 belay (start of P3) ample trad gear to build your own belay. |
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dinodinosaur | 16 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Anyone wanting to do this route should think about bringing their big balls or their big (blue) cams to make it feel less intimidating | ||
Show beta
βeta: Anyone wanting to do this route should think about bringing their big balls or their big (blue) cams to make it feel less intimidating |
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Grade: VI ***
(Brenta Group)