Rockfax Description
A grand adventure up the ridge from sea level to the very top. Belay ledges are spacious and protection consistently good. Start at a crack in the middle of the wall.
1) 4a, 18m. Approach the crack from the left and follow it to a ledge on the right. The best finish to this pitch is to move back left into the corner and bridge up in an exposed position before stepping onto the left arete and a belay. Alternatively, if this feels a bit “out there” then finish up the less exciting right wall instead.
2) 16m. Climb up the arete from the left side of the ledge, taking care with the rock in places. The rock angle eases and slabs lead to a notch and belay.
3) 13m. Balance up the rock above the belay to gain easier ground, follow this along the ridge to a ledge and belay below the final tower.
4) 24m. Climb up the arete on the left, passing a good thread before a tricky move leads to a ledge. Head straight up from here over a series of large steps to belay on the very summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Excellent positions, splendid climbing and good gear, weaving around the East Ridge of the Tor. Pitches 3 and 4 are usually run together.
Ticklists
100 best limestone climbs in Britain , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Gower Peninsula - Jeremy Talbot's recommended climbs , UWTSD Rock , Gower Classic Rock , Tor Bay
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| scott.hill | 18 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Kudos available to anyone who can free my nut! Top pitch, first placement. Anya Keatley tough tag. ?♂️ | βeta? | |
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βeta: Kudos available to anyone who can free my nut! Top pitch, first placement. Anya Keatley tough tag. ?♂️ |
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| Angus Goldsmith | 6 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Clear route with many opportunities for protection. Great to catch golden hour on a spring ascent | βeta? | |
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βeta: Clear route with many opportunities for protection. Great to catch golden hour on a spring ascent |
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| SteffJacob | 2023 |
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βeta: Block lead | βeta? | |
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βeta: Block lead |
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| nickcanute | 12 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Led before with my missus in the 90s | βeta? | |
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βeta: Led before with my missus in the 90s |
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| JenkinsCW | 8 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Lovely climb! Access from above is to be taken slow but didn't rope up, ideally would be to approach from the beach at low tide. A lot of bird poo on the face of Pitch 4, We avoided by using the exposed side of the arete. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Lovely climb! Access from above is to be taken slow but didn't rope up, ideally would be to approach from the beach at low tide. A lot of bird poo on the face of Pitch 4, We avoided by using the exposed side of the arete. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Tor Bay and Great Tor
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