UKC

Climbs 182
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 19m a.s.l
Faces S

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Great Tor. © d_b

Crag features

Lying between Oxwich and Three Cliffs Bay are a number of agreeable cliffs. Their surrounding golden beaches, sand dunes and tussocked gorse moorland, combined with an abundance of low grade single and multi-pitch routes makes the area ideal for families, novices and solo forays. Great Tor is the very prominent feature at the end of the headland separating Oxwich Bay from Three Cliff Bay. Little Tor is a smaller headland set back a couple of hundred metres west across the beach and West Tor is a little further west and well above the beach.

Approach notes

A parking bay on the A4118 next to the 'Old Post Office' (which no longer exists) in Penmaen, gives access via a wide gate on the left of the parking area, to a lane descending after 600 metres to a wooden gate. Directly after, a sandy path leads off right (west) across the plateau to the back of Tor Bay. Towards the end of the plateau one path bears left along the top of the cliff to the col at the top of Great Tor. Follow this path to access routes on the upper tier of Great Tor. For Great Tor East, take the left (east) gully down from the col to arrive at beach level.From the plateau a second twisting path descends right to beach level, from where Great Tor lies to the east (left) and Little Tor to the west (right). West Tor lies beyond Little Tor. It is possible to access West Tor from the cliff top path when the tide is in. Follow the cliff top path west from the end of the plateau to a point about 100m before the first stile and follow a steep trail down and left with care to reach Great Tor Upper Tier.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Only applies to the routes on the rarely climbed and loose south face. 
Great crag and good quality rock but extremely poor belay anchors at the top. Please see the photos I took of the belay pegs on April 2014. Protection is also very limited on the belay ledges so caution and experience applies.
pangeafoto - 23/Apr/14
This was a great day out. Lots of easy climbing and lots of good routes at HS/VS grade. Nice and secluded, quiet, easy to find. Surprised this hasn't had a lot of traffic!
partz - 07/Nov/12
bottom third of odins wall area is covered in barnacles making it not very pleasant. much more than other areas near by
ross duffield - 20/Sep/09
an excellent little crag with climbs to suite a range of skills and styles. especially nice at sunset in the summer, sweet.
josephjones - 21/Dec/08
Recently did the variation of the four pitch East Ridge on the Great Tor(HS 4b,4b). A nice simple introduction to multipitching, but after the first two pitches was a scramble. The last two pitches I lead in one, Gower Guide says its 73m, would say more like 60 and has a 3 star rating, dont think it's worth 3 stars. Dissapointing overall, except for the view from the top, stunning, able to see from Graves End to Oxwich bay.
uwsmc - 24/Jun/05
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