Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A thin crack gains a committing traverse to finish steeply up the right-hand side of the arete. A dry-mouthed VS for many years! © Rockfax
FA. Peter Biven 1955.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Stanage Popular , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GeorgiePorgie1 | 18 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tech crux is getting to the traverse break for sure and you only have one number two (DMM) nut to protect you getting to the mid break. Between there and the traverse break you would risk a ground fall and obviously you are super exposed (i.e. soloing and don't even bother to waist energy trying to place a cam in the start of the traverse) on the traverse (albeit easy; agreed with 4c moves). Crux is very reachy for the short and the start requires some powerful and awkward laybacking with high right foot. The crack is of no use even for finger jamming. Left arete is defo not the crux as it's basically the finish of Mistella Right (s 4a). Finally, if you go on the right arete for the start you should downgrade to at least 5a if not high 4c. Scary climb, but really 3 stars for me. N.B. This is a short person's (5'5) beta. :D | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Tech crux is getting to the traverse break for sure and you only have one number two (DMM) nut to protect you getting to the mid break. Between there and the traverse break you would risk a ground fall and obviously you are super exposed (i.e. soloing and don't even bother to waist energy trying to place a cam in the start of the traverse) on the traverse (albeit easy; agreed with 4c moves). Crux is very reachy for the short and the start requires some powerful and awkward laybacking with high right foot. The crack is of no use even for finger jamming. Left arete is defo not the crux as it's basically the finish of Mistella Right (s 4a). Finally, if you go on the right arete for the start you should downgrade to at least 5a if not high 4c. Scary climb, but really 3 stars for me. N.B. This is a short person's (5'5) beta. :D |
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| Andy Reeve | 17 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Didn't think the crux was the left arete! Start much harder then once on the traverse your away | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Didn't think the crux was the left arete! Start much harder then once on the traverse your away |
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| The Grist | 6 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The traverse is unprotected but easy (4c max). The crux comes on the left arete. Fully protected to catch a fall. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The traverse is unprotected but easy (4c max). The crux comes on the left arete. Fully protected to catch a fall. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Todycade
Grade: E1 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)