Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb the pocketed wall right of the arete then teeter up the steep slab directly above, making a worrying high step to reach a shallow groove. Mild for E2 but feels bold the first time. © Rockfax
FA. Giles Barker 1976.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E2 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andy Hobson | 4 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not E2 and not 5b. Maybe E1 5a at a push. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not E2 and not 5b. Maybe E1 5a at a push. |
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| Si dH | 13 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: I reckon the lower section is just several slightly intimidating and effectively unprotected 4c moves, nothing more. The top slab is solid 5b though and feels necky. My first E2 :D | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I reckon the lower section is just several slightly intimidating and effectively unprotected 4c moves, nothing more. The top slab is solid 5b though and feels necky. My first E2 :D |
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| Duncan I | 31 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: A scary heave-ho to get up the initial steep wall with protection of dubious worth in the break. The upper section is quite bold but wonderfully absorbing. If you like steep slab moves you'll love this. E2 but only just. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A scary heave-ho to get up the initial steep wall with protection of dubious worth in the break. The upper section is quite bold but wonderfully absorbing. If you like steep slab moves you'll love this. E2 but only just. |
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| Robo | 21 Sep, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought this was a great route, quite easy, with bombing gear for the lower section and an exciting runout for the crux. Easy for E2 though (although good for your first!). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I thought this was a great route, quite easy, with bombing gear for the lower section and an exciting runout for the crux. Easy for E2 though (although good for your first!). |
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| Chris the Tall | 14 Nov, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux is probably the hard moves on the pockets on the lower wall - with gear at you feet and a nasty landing | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The crux is probably the hard moves on the pockets on the lower wall - with gear at you feet and a nasty landing |
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| Jon Greengrass | 23 Jul, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Unfortunately i top-roped this in my mis-spent youth, I breezed it and look forward to making it my first headpoint ;o) A nice delicate slabby little number with a steeper pockety start, Don't know about pro but reckon my tri-cams will come in handy. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Unfortunately i top-roped this in my mis-spent youth, I breezed it and look forward to making it my first headpoint ;o) A nice delicate slabby little number with a steeper pockety start, Don't know about pro but reckon my tri-cams will come in handy. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
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Daydreamer
Grade: E2 6b ***
(Stanage Plantation)