Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The centre of the pocketed slab is especially taxing for the short - beware the final reachy moves. Gear is minimal! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
FA traditionally credited to Gary Gibson, but also claimed by Brian Cropper, who called it Pocket wall, with Tim Leach doing the second ascent.
See above 1978.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Best slab climbs of the UK , Grit solos hvs -e3 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Slab , Grit Top Rope Solo , Don’t Slip (At all) Now
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alan James - Rockfax | 17 May, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hardest at an okay height for a pad. The gear on the route is terrible. The finish isn\'t too bad though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hardest at an okay height for a pad. The gear on the route is terrible. The finish isn't too bad though. |
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| Chris the Tall | 14 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Have soloed this a few times and the top half is definately easier for the tall (steady 5b for me). When I first did it I placed a very poor friend, but reckon you're better off using the pocket as a hold. I have more problems with the lower half, particularly if I try and avoid the holds on the left. This route was originally given E2, then downgraded to HVS, but I'd stick with E1 5c | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Have soloed this a few times and the top half is definately easier for the tall (steady 5b for me). When I first did it I placed a very poor friend, but reckon you're better off using the pocket as a hold. I have more problems with the lower half, particularly if I try and avoid the holds on the left. This route was originally given E2, then downgraded to HVS, but I'd stick with E1 5c |
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| andi_e | 11 Oct, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: yeah theres no protection, its definately E3. i headpoint soloed it! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: yeah theres no protection, its definately E3. i headpoint soloed it! |
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| ste | 21 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: skyhook makes it bombproof!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: skyhook makes it bombproof!! |
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| Jon Greengrass | 20 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: got a 1/3 of the way up and things looked to get worse, maybe you could a get a tricam in one of the pockets, surely worth more than E1? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: got a 1/3 of the way up and things looked to get worse, maybe you could a get a tricam in one of the pockets, surely worth more than E1? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Orang-outang
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stanage North)