There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The thin cracks. Gear is a bit of a fiddle. © Rockfax
FA. Clive Rowland 1961.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Alan James - Rockfax | 17 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Needs several small cams and none of them is great. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Needs several small cams and none of them is great. |
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Mutl3y | 11 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Gibbed off rightward after gettin too high above my last bit of marginal gear. Don't really like this sort of problem... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Gibbed off rightward after gettin too high above my last bit of marginal gear. Don't really like this sort of problem... |
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Souljah | 3 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: I found 3-4 good bits of gear in the crack leading up to the crux, past that there is nothing but its not really required! Good technical moves, keep to the right of the shallow crack but do not be tempted by the twin cracks! A good VS lead in my book | βeta? | |
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βeta: I found 3-4 good bits of gear in the crack leading up to the crux, past that there is nothing but its not really required! Good technical moves, keep to the right of the shallow crack but do not be tempted by the twin cracks! A good VS lead in my book |
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Simon Caldwell | 15 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: I assume you're not supposed to use the left of duo cracks near the top :-( Quite a pleasant route, but a bit of an eliminate as that wretched crack is too close to resist. Can't see how the crux is protected by bomber gear unless a side run is placed (in that crack). | βeta? | |
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βeta: I assume you're not supposed to use the left of duo cracks near the top :-( Quite a pleasant route, but a bit of an eliminate as that wretched crack is too close to resist. Can't see how the crux is protected by bomber gear unless a side run is placed (in that crack). |
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54ms | 19 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: I just fell of the bastard. Pleasently technical my arse! | βeta? | |
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βeta: I just fell of the bastard. Pleasently technical my arse! |
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Stig | 18 Nov, 2003 |
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βeta: I agree that some of the gear lower down is a bit dubious but bomber gear protects the crux. More importantly, it's not that thin for slabby 5a, so not 'hard' 5a. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I agree that some of the gear lower down is a bit dubious but bomber gear protects the crux. More importantly, it's not that thin for slabby 5a, so not 'hard' 5a. |
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Monk | 13 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: I soloed it and did think the opportunities for gear were limited. Good moves though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I soloed it and did think the opportunities for gear were limited. Good moves though. |
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Jon Greengrass | 20 Mar, 2003 |
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βeta: Ace technical climbing, Soloed this second go after reversing from what i thought was the crux first time. I'm sure i could have laced it with wires and small friend. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ace technical climbing, Soloed this second go after reversing from what i thought was the crux first time. I'm sure i could have laced it with wires and small friend. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 8 Apr, 2002 |
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βeta: Pleasantly technical?? I found it scary with poor gear! Eases a bit in the top half of the route though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pleasantly technical?? I found it scary with poor gear! Eases a bit in the top half of the route though. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stoney Middleton)