Restricted Access
No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
A stiff pitch, which is a popular route of its grade (i.e. an easy E5 ). The headwall is thin, technical and sustained but only short. Start at the block belay below Little Queenie. Traverse right to where you are forced to step down into steeper territory. Move right until below a hanging groove. Make difficult moves up into the groove and follow the hourglass slab up right to its end below a good undercut and a steep headwall. Getting established on the headwall is hard. Above, sustained climbing on well-spaced crimps leads to a rest on a small ledge on the right arete. The climbing eases considerably and leads up and slightly left to the top. Belay well back. A low start is possible, giving one long single pitch from the boulder beach. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , 30 For My 30s , Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list , Soft Touches , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| George_Surf | 11 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Well worth starting off the beach directly under the peg. Skirt the grass on the left. Place a big wire right of the corner then head up and left on big flakes. More good wires then you hit big jugs in the break, just left of the peg. Don’t bother with the death grass approach! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Well worth starting off the beach directly under the peg. Skirt the grass on the left. Place a big wire right of the corner then head up and left on big flakes. More good wires then you hit big jugs in the break, just left of the peg. Don’t bother with the death grass approach! |
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| DeanB | 22 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Cheeky kneebar rest before headwall. Really good gear around this part, a mega clean whipper is the consequence of blowing it while trying hard on the headwall. Would happily get on it again. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Cheeky kneebar rest before headwall. Really good gear around this part, a mega clean whipper is the consequence of blowing it while trying hard on the headwall. Would happily get on it again. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn
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Positron
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)