UKH Hills - 'The Toilet'

Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.
Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).

Last update: 19/12/2022

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22m.

Rockfax Description
One of the more popular technical routes at the Tor. Climb to the top of the prominent flake then move up and traverse left via hard moves on poor footholds. Continue direct via more hard and reachy moves to pull onto the slab and an easier finish. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Lewis 1988. It has become much harder since the first ascent..

Ticklists

UK 8a and up , On Peak Rock , Sheff

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
g2	26 May, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Whilst its in print, happy to take the 8a;in reality it lacks a 6c move to really establish it as an 8a. Placing the size 1 wire on the lead doesn't make any physiological difference. Its a route with a similar problem to Sturgeon, The Embankment, Cheedale - the debate will go on and on over the grade, but hand on heart 7c+.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Whilst its in print, happy to take the 8a;in reality it lacks a 6c move to really establish it as an 8a. Placing the size 1 wire on the lead doesn't make any physiological difference. Its a route with a similar problem to Sturgeon, The Embankment, Cheedale - the debate will go on and on over the grade, but hand on heart 7c+.
teddy	9 Nov, 2005	Show βeta βeta: V. height dependant on both hard bits. I reckon 8a for those who can't keep feet on big footholds on bottom crux and can't do big reach off left sidepull/u'cut higher up. For those ppl who can do these reaches OK I now reckon only 7c+ as these moves are not 6c like u would normally expect on an 8a and its not really that steep/ sustained like other 8a's which have only 6b moves (eg. Raindogs) plus it has some big shakeout jugs. (Ignore earlier comments above - In Brine has since got harder due to loss of holds and is now 8a).
Show beta βeta: V. height dependant on both hard bits. I reckon 8a for those who can't keep feet on big footholds on bottom crux and can't do big reach off left sidepull/u'cut higher up. For those ppl who can do these reaches OK I now reckon only 7c+ as these moves are not 6c like u would normally expect on an 8a and its not really that steep/ sustained like other 8a's which have only 6b moves (eg. Raindogs) plus it has some big shakeout jugs. (Ignore earlier comments above - In Brine has since got harder due to loss of holds and is now 8a).
carl dawson	15 Sep, 2002	Show βeta βeta: Harder to use the decent footholds if you're shorter; hence difference in opinion on the grade... quite height-specific.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Harder to use the decent footholds if you're shorter; hence difference in opinion on the grade... quite height-specific.
teddy	29 May, 2002	Show βeta βeta: People say this is definitely 8a due to holds coming off plus it has always been 8a anyway! Harder than its neighbour In Brine which just doesn't cut it at 8a and weighs in at tough 7c+.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: People say this is definitely 8a due to holds coming off plus it has always been 8a anyway! Harder than its neighbour In Brine which just doesn't cut it at 8a and weighs in at tough 7c+.