Restricted Access

The National Trust own the crag and whilst it’s not on open access land with a right of access, the Trust kindly allow public access for climbers, on the condition that we look after the crag. Here are some simple tips to help you enjoy your visit, look after the area and make sure we retain access for the future.

  • Be considerate and aware that we share this quiet dale with other users. Anglers by the river, walkers and local residents all value this place for its peaceful setting so keep a lid on shouting or screaming.
  • Parking is a serious issue here - see the 'parking and approach' section below for detailed advice.
  • Van camping and biving at the crag has increasingly caused friction with locals over the last few years and is now strongly discouraged. It’s very noticeable in the dale and there are places much better suited to this so head elsewhere.
  • Toileting in the area around the crag is also becoming more of a problem and its crucial that climbers minimise their impact to avoid future access problems. Don’t be tempted to use the bushes – use the public toilets at Millers Dale station a very short trip away. If you can’t do that, carry a ‘wag bag’ and pack out all human waste and toilet paper. This special place deserves better than a minefield of human poo around it.
  • Normal practice now is to remove quickdraws at the end of the day and not to leave overnight. Though leaving in-situ draws is common practice on other crags around the world, here, locals have objected.  
  • Keeping the crag and surrounding area litter free is a good way of showing others that climbers care. Take everything home with you including litter you find to dispose of responsibly.
  • Over use of chalk might not look like much to climbers, but it can be an unwelcome intrusion to others. Make sure you clean off tick marks and brush excess chalk off holds at the end of your session.
  • Be vigilant for loose rock. Even on well established lines bits still do drop off, especially higher up on the crag.
  • Some of the routes have high first bolts, a clipstick or a well placed pad may save a twisted ankle (or worse).
22m.

Rockfax Description
An excellent direct start to The Toilet. Climb up the flake-line (the original start to Obscene Gesture), then move up until it is possible to stretch rightwards to the small flake on The Toilet. Finish up this. © Rockfax

Mark Pretty Oct/2009.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Sheff , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
tintinandpip 13 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Unfortunately after my ascent, the undercut for the left at the start of the crux was pulled off. Anyone fancy the repair job ?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Unfortunately after my ascent, the undercut for the left at the start of the crux was pulled off. Anyone fancy the repair job ?
Adam Patterson 12 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The jug by 2nd clip is very loose and feels like it is about to come off
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The jug by 2nd clip is very loose and feels like it is about to come off
193 2 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: At least one of the new bolts is in too deep , hanger will be changed in the near future so the nut will seat properly , comment about changed beta is possibly due to bolt obscuring a foot hold apparently.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: At least one of the new bolts is in too deep , hanger will be changed in the near future so the nut will seat properly , comment about changed beta is possibly due to bolt obscuring a foot hold apparently.
UKB Shark 21 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: New bolts now added so below feedback is redundant
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: New bolts now added so below feedback is redundant

Logged Ascents

279 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Raven Tor (Miller's Dale)

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 50
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ascent Given

Grade: 7c ***
(Dale Quarry (Wirksworth))

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