Restricted Access
Due to the tilted nature of the huge rock platform at the base of the cliff, retreat from routes on the SW and S faces is only possible for 2 - 3 hours before or after low tide. Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed. A large rock fall has affected some routes left of Surprise Attack.
2018 - another large rockfall has removed parts of routes in the 'Seafarers' area on the west side of the point.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seaonal Restriction due to chough nesting: 'Nightmare on Lily Street' to 'Brain Drain' inclusive. This includes the Route 'Daydreams'.
Rockfax Description
A good route which follows a slanting groove in the big wall. The start of the second pitch has a bold and technical move that is much harder than the rest of the route. Start below a crack which runs from right to left through the initial bulges.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the butch crack and flake to the break - more strenuous than it looks. Traverse left to belay on a ledge below the slanting groove.
2) 6a, 30m. Make a very thin move up and right into the groove using a hidden crimp (poor wire) and establish yourself in the groove. Move up then left around a bulge at the top. Continue up the wall and slabby groove above to the left-hand end of the large roof. Finish straight up easy cracks. © Rockfax
FA. J.Perrin, J.Curran 15/Apr/1980.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ariegeois | 23 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Start of the route is good - meaty little crack on jugs to get you away from the tides. First section of the second pitch is quite technical and bold, but difficulty and quality fade away as the pitch goes on. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Start of the route is good - meaty little crack on jugs to get you away from the tides. First section of the second pitch is quite technical and bold, but difficulty and quality fade away as the pitch goes on. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mewsford Point
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Ghost Ship
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Bosherston Head)