UKC

Climbs 76
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

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my first absail into pembroke sea cliffs,ace. © datoon

Crag features

One of the problems with Mewsford is the huge number of brilliant routes that you walk past on the approach - you really need to want to go there! So how can I convince you? Well, here goes...Mewsford has a great set of routes in the E1 to E3 range that take brilliant and complex lines up a magnificent face of rock. The climbing starts strenuously but eases as you get higher and the exposure increases. All the routes listed here are worth doing but Daydreams and Surprise Attack are uber-classics! So now you are convinced, here is how to get there...

Approach notes

A long walk from either end of Range East. The wall is marked by a lookout point about a large wedge-shaped ramp in the sea below.

Approach from Stack Rocks in 35 mins, or 40 mins from St. Govan's.

Restricted Access

Due to the tilted nature of the huge rock platform at the base of the cliff, retreat from routes on the SW and S faces is only possible for 2 - 3 hours before or after low tide. Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed. A large rock fall has affected some routes left of Surprise Attack.

2018 - another large rockfall has removed parts of routes in the 'Seafarers' area on the west side of the point.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seaonal Restriction due to chough nesting:   'Nightmare on Lily Street' to 'Brain Drain' inclusive.  This includes the Route 'Daydreams'.

 

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Climbs at this crag

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