Restricted Access
Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
A magnificent route. Start right of Man of the Earth at a narrow groove..
1) 6b, 27m. Follow the narrow groove to roofs and pull out left (thread) to a diagonal ramp (peg). Climb the overhung wall leftwards to good holds and a thread. Stand up and follow the diagonal crack left to move up onto an angular block. Peg belay above.
2) 6b, 24m. Climb up right to a narrow footledge below the arete (peg). Climb the arete (thread) from where a long reach accesses easier ground. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A magnificent route up the overhanging wall and arête between Transformer and Holy Grail. Start 6m right of Transformer. Some of the in-situ gear needs replacing.
1) 6b, 27m. Climb a narrow groove to roofs, pull out left, TR, to gain a diagonal ramp, PR, then cross the overhung wall left to jugs, TR. Stand up and follow the diagonal crack left to move up onto an angular block.
2) 6b, 24m. Climb up right to a narrow footledge below the arête, PR. Climb the arête, TR, then a long reach leads to easier ground.
M. Crocker, R. Thomas 30/Aug/1986.
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Guidebooks for Fall Bay to Mewslade
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The Divine Guiding Light
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)