Restricted Access
Due to late nesting sea-birds on the eastern arete area please avoid the routes "Fallout" to Gstelli" inclusive until the end of August . The birds are Fulmars and can be very aggressive and will vomit foul smelling puke over climbers close to the nest ...so it's in our best interest to avoid these routes until the birds have fledged! The routes affected are also pretty poor!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
In addition to the advice regarding nesting Fulmars above, The BMC has been informed by the NT that they wish to impose a seasonal restriction ".... due to the presence of ‘cavity-nesting’ Common Swifts* using the cracks in this face. As a minimum the routes ‘Reptiles and Samurai’, ‘Isis’, ‘Horus’, and ‘Rhea’ need to close until 1st August".
The BMC does not normally agree to seasonal restrictions for nesting Swifts but crag nesting Swifts are very scarce and the species has seen significant decline in populations in recent years. We have been infomed by the NT that they "want the routes listed below at Lewes Castle closed until 1st August. The decline in breeding population of Common Swifts is very worrying".
No climbing on the routes "Reptiles and Samurai" to "Rhea" inclusive fro May 1st until August 1st.
Rockfax Description
Another awesome line that ventures through some impressive terrain, with a healthy smattering of big holds to keep you moving upwards.
1) 6a, 27m. Get the crux out of the way early at the lower roof, then follow the corner and grooves above to a belay ledge on the right.
2) 5c, 21m. Climb the groove on the right of the ledge to gain the crack in the headwall and finish up it.. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The route takes the prominent slanting grooves in the centre-right of the wall. Start 6m right of Yellow Wall beneath a block overhang at the base of a corner.
1) 6a, 27m. Climb round the hideous lower roof (crux), then follow the corner and rightward-slanting groove. At 20m, the groove curves back left to a platform and belay.
2) 5c, 21m. Step airily right around an arête into a groove. Reach the diagonal break (tricky) and move up into the obvious deep crack on the right wall. Muscle up this to the top. A variation finish traverses left into a stepped groove system.
Ticklists
100 best limestone climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Gower Peninsula - Jeremy Talbot's recommended climbs , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , The Local Ticklist , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| islandlynx | 21 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: we accessed it at a lowish high tide in slightly rough seas. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: we accessed it at a lowish high tide in slightly rough seas. |
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| Danmg123 | 7 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Clean and solid rock, abseil off a new-looking stake - considering how infrequently this route is done it's in really good nick. Tat on belay ledge is still fairly robust too. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Clean and solid rock, abseil off a new-looking stake - considering how infrequently this route is done it's in really good nick. Tat on belay ledge is still fairly robust too. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Fall Bay to Mewslade
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Power Trap
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)