The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).
Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use.
Rockfax Description
A tour of the buttress that has been severely affected by rockfall. Start under a rounded crack on the right side of the buttress.
1) 9m. Climb the rounded cracks to a large platform.
2) 4a, 10m. A fairly serious pitch. Head up the sharp arete and then traverse left to gain a stance and belay on 'The Pulpit'. The moves across to reach 'The Pulpit' are tricky.
3) 8m. Move left under the overhang to the arete. Traverse to a ledge and belay on the left side of the buttress below a crack.
4) 20m. Climb the crack and chimney above it to the top. © Rockfax
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Grade: S 4b ***
(Chair Ladder)