The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).
Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use.
Rockfax Description
The classic of this buttress does not disappoint. Start on ledges at the base of East Gully.
1) 4a, 13m. Move up easily to the base of a wide crack. The crack and wall on its left lead to a large belay ledge.
2) 4a, 12m. Move up to the V-chimney behind the stance and climb it before making a move right and up to a guano-stained belay ledge.
3) 4a, 10m. Move right to a steep crack and climb to a belay ledge.
4) 4b, 12m. The wide crack/chimney above leads to a niche, from which harder climbing accesses a ledge and belay.
5) 4a, 12m. Continue up short corners, past ledges, to the top of the cliff. © Rockfax
Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , Learning to Trad Climb: Cornwall , Cornwall 2021 , Dan’s Delights , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Dewimpification , South West Coastal Solo , Luke & Andy's Cornish Climbathon , Llidberis South West Tour
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Chamomile Rose | 22 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Very enjoyable | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very enjoyable |
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Phil Lyon | 21 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Guide suggests scrambling down and walking around sea level ledge for access. With a minor sea swell, we couldn\'t take this route even at low tide and abseil in was far more straightforward. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Guide suggests scrambling down and walking around sea level ledge for access. With a minor sea swell, we couldn't take this route even at low tide and abseil in was far more straightforward. |
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Phil Lyon | 21 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Guide suggests scrambling down and walking around sea level ledge for access. With a minor sea swell, we couldn\'t take this route even at low tide and abseil in was far more straightforward. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Guide suggests scrambling down and walking around sea level ledge for access. With a minor sea swell, we couldn't take this route even at low tide and abseil in was far more straightforward. |
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scottdurrant | 13 May, 2022 |
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βeta: There is a gull nesting at the top of pitch 3 | ||
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βeta: There is a gull nesting at the top of pitch 3 |
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chudders1 | 30 May, 2021 |
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βeta: 1st pitch appears to have no gear unless you carry American size cams and there is a fulmar on belay ledge top of pitch four ! Probably won’t be very happy when chick hatches | ||
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βeta: 1st pitch appears to have no gear unless you carry American size cams and there is a fulmar on belay ledge top of pitch four ! Probably won’t be very happy when chick hatches |
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Fokka | 17 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Stick to the right crack on the 3rd pitch | βeta? | |
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βeta: Stick to the right crack on the 3rd pitch |
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