Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Excellent climbing up the centre of the buttress. The start is steep and strenuous, although on good holds. The upper section is delicate and poorly protected. © Rockfax
FA. Harry Kelly late 1910s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage 1956
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Simon Caldwell | 28 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Kelly's Eye (which was first climbed on the same day as Spring Sunshine) is included and is just as much of an eliminate, and not as nice climbing IMHO. And Rockfax claim that it's a selected buttress guide, ie they choose only some of the buttresses but include all the routes on that buttress. Except when they don't! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Kelly's Eye (which was first climbed on the same day as Spring Sunshine) is included and is just as much of an eliminate, and not as nice climbing IMHO. And Rockfax claim that it's a selected buttress guide, ie they choose only some of the buttresses but include all the routes on that buttress. Except when they don't! |
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| Simon Caldwell | 28 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: There's a route missed out of the Rockfax guide, an eliminate between Kelly's Eliminate and October Crack. Spring Sunshine VS 4c, up the right edge of the buttress throughout, really nice climbing but spoiled by the need to avoid using the arete on the right. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There's a route missed out of the Rockfax guide, an eliminate between Kelly's Eliminate and October Crack. Spring Sunshine VS 4c, up the right edge of the buttress throughout, really nice climbing but spoiled by the need to avoid using the arete on the right. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 28 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Dangerously misgraded. S 4b implies a single well protected 4b move, but there is no worthwhile protection until almost half height, and then no more until the top. It's either VS 4b or HS 4a - I'd say probably the latter (that's what Stanage 2002 gives it) though leaving the ground felt harder than 4b. Either way, imagine how you'd feel with the old Stanage guide or OPR both of which give it as Diff! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Dangerously misgraded. S 4b implies a single well protected 4b move, but there is no worthwhile protection until almost half height, and then no more until the top. It's either VS 4b or HS 4a - I'd say probably the latter (that's what Stanage 2002 gives it) though leaving the ground felt harder than 4b. Either way, imagine how you'd feel with the old Stanage guide or OPR both of which give it as Diff! |
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| Monk | 27 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I think 4b is fair for the start. The top is easier but very bold. An excellent route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I think 4b is fair for the start. The top is easier but very bold. An excellent route. |
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| Reds | 5 Nov, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: The day I was there three parties couldn't do the start and I have to admit to cheating on the last bit! I normally climb VS. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The day I was there three parties couldn't do the start and I have to admit to cheating on the last bit! I normally climb VS. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Upper Tor Wall
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)