It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre on (01803) 882 704 before descending to the base of the cliffs. Climbers have caused a number of false call outs in the past - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Berry Head is becoming a mecca for deep water soloing, but it is also an important breeding site for many seabirds. Historically, access was completely restricted during breeding but thanks to the efforts of local climbers, the BMC and Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust, the restriction has been made variable. This means it will be lifted as soon as nesting has been completed. The variable restriction has been granted on the condition that the following is adhered to:
1) The Great Cave and pitch 1 of Rainbow Bridge is still covered by the restriction (1st March to 31st July) and NO ACCESS is permitted. This is because the birds frequent the large platform. The standard approach for Rainbow Bridge (and The Great Cave) crosses this platform and will disturb the birds so climbers must choose one of the following options: a) Abseil from the metal post en route to The Great Cave (just beyond a red access notice) to an in-situ thread at the end of pitch 1. b) Down-climb HVS rock just to the left (looking out) of the post. This is not recommended for those who don't know the route.
2) The final Terminal Zawn (pitch 11) is still restricted. A marker just before this shows the extent of the ban. Climbers should exit up VS territory above the marker.
3) Access restrictions still apply to the following: - White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation) - The Oz Wall - The Ledges above the Oz wall, beyond the Terminal Zawn. - The Great Cave and Bismark Wall. Markers have been positioned at both ends of the "open" section and these will show whether or not you are allowed on the traverse. This can be checked by contacting the Berry Head Rangers office (01803 882619).
Please contact the ranger if you are confused about cliff accessibility. A few other considerations: If you fall into the sea (during the restricted nesting season) getting out is now much more problematic as you must NOT get out at the Great Cave ledge (doing so would disturb the nesting birds). Those concerned by this should opt to abseil in (see b above) - doing this allows you to leave a rope through the in-situ thread at the base of the abseil to facilitate pulling out of the sea....or make the big swim to the ‘ Red Walls’ area.
Rockfax Description
Fabulous intricate climbing on a little-travelled section of sea cliff. The route is a natural continuation to Rainbow Bridge, (p.590) adding another 70m of climbing. Start on the Terminal Ledges. Head right on engaging ground to meet an overhung corner groove after 9m. Move up and on past a hanging block to an arete. Head down a crack in a steep smooth wall (crux) before continuing to where a crack leads down to the right-hand side of a sea cave. Now take the rising traverse line to the end of the difficulties and ledges.
Exit - The best option is to reverse the route. You can scramble carefully along the cliff top until above the Red Walls and then head up through vegetation to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Nick Hancock 1997.
Hard water , Devon DWS progression , 2020-2021 Deep Water Solo Goals , The Art of the Granite Crab , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , Devon - Berry Head , Cream first! , South West Coast Traversing ticklist , South England DWS Dreams
There is no feedback for this climb.
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: 6b+ ***
(Babbacombe Crags)