38 pitches.
5c, 4b, 6a+, 4c, 5b, 6a+, 3c, 5b, 6a+, 5b, 5c, 6b+, 6b+, 6c, 6c, 6b, 5c, 6a+, 5c, 6a+, 5b, 5c, 5b, 6b, 5b, 5c, 6a, 6a, 6a, 5c, 5c, 6c, 6a+, 5c, 6b+, 6c, 5c, 6b+
The entire 1050m traverse of El Cap de Morgiou, with an alternative to the original pitches 15-17 (6c, 6b, 5c). Starts the same 5c pitch as the route El Cap, and ends all the way at the tip of the peninsula's East face. The route has 38 pitches, some sparsely bolted, some not at all (easy scrambles), and some with a good spread. Some of the route can be done as a DWS but the bolted line climbs as high as 20+meters above water in places. Be that as it may, one can still attempt one's own DWS traverse of the entire 1000-meter face by making up one's own route. Details can be found in the French Escalade Les Calanques (2020) guidebook.
The entire 1050m traverse of El Cap de Morgiou, with an alternative to the original pitches 15-17 (6c, 6b, 5c). Starts the same 5c pitch as the route El Cap, and ends all the way at the tip of the peninsula's East face. The route has 38 pitches, some sparsely bolted, some not at all (easy scrambles), and some with a good spread. Some of the route can be done as a DWS but the bolted line climbs as high as 20+meters above water in places. Be that as it may, one can still attempt one's own DWS traverse of the entire 1000-meter face by making up one's own route. Details can be found in the French Escalade Les Calanques (2020) guidebook.
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Route of Interest
La Guillotine
Grade: 6c ***
(Les Goudes)