38 pitches. 5c, 4b, 6a+, 4c, 5b, 6a+, 3c, 5b, 6a+, 5b, 5c, 6b+, 6b+, 6c, 6a, 7a+, 5b, 6a+, 5c, 6a+, 5b, 5c, 5b, 6b, 5b, 5c, 6a, 6a, 6a, 5c, 5c, 6c, 6a+, 5c, 6b+, 6c, 5c, 6b+

The entire 1050m traverse of El Cap de Morgiou that ends all the way at the tip of the peninsula's East face. The route has 38 pitches, some sparsely bolted, some not at all (easy scrambles), and some with a good spread. Start at the water's edge at the coordinates (43.204425, 5.452008) with the bolted 5c pitch. Some of the route can be done as a DWS but the bolted line climbs as high as 20+meters above water in places. Be that as it may, one can still attempt one's own DWS traverse of the entire 1000-meter face by making up one's own route. Details can be found in the French Escalade Les Calanques (2020) guidebook.

An alternative route exists for pitches 15-17, with max grade 6c (see El Cap (alternative))

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Guidebooks for Morgiou

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High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
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High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Route of Interest
Les Cochons dans l'Éspace

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Les Goudes)

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