75m, 2 pitches. An excellent route with a long first pitch. Start at a short heather ramp at the right hand end of a heathery ledge below bulges about 10 m up and left of Eight Days a Week. Cruxes at the start and near the top of the first pitch provide the main challenge: the first is a finger crack, the second is a steep, well-positioned groove. Both are well protected. The slab climbing between is easier but interesting and surprisingly protectable.
P1. 45 m, 5b: Surmount the initial bulge and pull steeply up the finger crack on to the slab (the exit holds are sound but take care with the blocks just above). Step right and climb past a tiny ramp to a pocket in a break. Move up and right on to a good foothold in the break. Pull up and work up the slab to a thin diagonal crack. Follow it to a ledge on the right. Go up a short groove and step right to a higher ledge where the rock steepens. Continue up the next, steepening, groove. Where the holds diminish, make difficult moves to reach and pass a jug in the flake on the left. Improving holds lead into the exit groove of pitch one of Eight Days a Week. On gaining easy ground, keep left into a niche and exit via its left side to the heathery groove above with a choice of stances and belays.
P2. 30 m, 4c: Continue up the heathery groove to a blunt spike below the upper rocks. Gain the highest ledge above from the left (loose rock round to the right). Starting in the groove, bear right to the rib and climb a steepening to a slab. At the top of the slab surmount another bulge and easy ground to the top ridge. (Don’t go too far right at the upper bulge: the nearest blocks and flakes to the right have been tested and seem sound but the loosest-looking outer flakes on the arête have not been either cleaned or tested).

Harold Walmsley, Chris Calow 15/Jun/2022.

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