95m, 4 pitches. A big pitch up the prominent central crack and the headwall on its left links to an easier, but still exciting, pitch on the upper tower. Without a suspect flake in the crack and the avoidable nature of the crux it would warrant ***. Start at the foot of the right-facing, zig-zag corner that leads to the crack.
P1. 48 m, 5c: Follow the corner to a spike on the left. Step right into the crack and follow it via sections of strenuous laybacking until the crack widens and the angle eases. Ignore the easy groove above and step left across the wall to a crack (a high cam on the wall is reachable from a little higher up the groove to protect the step left). Climb the crack as it gradually disappears, hard and sustained (crux). Work towards the right arĂȘte as the holds improve and finish up this.
P2. 10 m, - : Make a short link directly up the heather and broken ground above to a belay near the top of a grassy recess left of a rounded rock rib.
P3. 22 m, 5b: Gain the sidewall of the upper tower where a detached flake forms a chimney with a short crack in its left wall. Swing round the arĂȘte to the left from a good hold at the top of the crack. Semi hand-traverse left on good incuts with footholds on the overhanging wall below (cam placement part way along) until it is possible to move up into a groove. Climb it steeply to a spike and continue up easy ground to the final stance of Motivation.
P4. 15 m, - : Finish up the final pitch of Motivation.

Chris Calow, Harold Walmsley 18/May/2023.

Feedback

User Date Notes
harold walmsley 23 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The route originally finished up easy ground after P1. The third pitch (second proper (5b) pitch) was added by C. Calow and H. Walmsley on 23rd May 2023,
Show beta
βeta: The route originally finished up easy ground after P1. The third pitch (second proper (5b) pitch) was added by C. Calow and H. Walmsley on 23rd May 2023,

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Route of Interest
Rock Steady

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Llechau Mawr)

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