95m, 2 pitches.
Follows the line of Gambit Climb, providing a sustained, well protected & very entertaining winter route.
P1 45m 6 A steep pull over twin flakes gains a ledge. Shuffle left to an open groove, which leads to another ledge & another shuffle left. Another groove leads up to a large ledge & possible stance. Another steep pull up the flake & groove on the left leads to another ledge where easier climbing up a series of flakes & cracks leads up & left to a large ledge & stance.
P2 45m 6 Drop down slightly to the right to find a flake crack that leads up & right to a large snowy ledge. A chimney leads back left & to a series of entertaining grooves, cracks & overlaps heading up & gently left. A steep square cut groove with great fist jams takes you back right to the final tricky pull to reach easier ground, taking you in 10m to the ridge.
P1 45m 6 A steep pull over twin flakes gains a ledge. Shuffle left to an open groove, which leads to another ledge & another shuffle left. Another groove leads up to a large ledge & possible stance. Another steep pull up the flake & groove on the left leads to another ledge where easier climbing up a series of flakes & cracks leads up & left to a large ledge & stance.
P2 45m 6 Drop down slightly to the right to find a flake crack that leads up & right to a large snowy ledge. A chimney leads back left & to a series of entertaining grooves, cracks & overlaps heading up & gently left. A steep square cut groove with great fist jams takes you back right to the final tricky pull to reach easier ground, taking you in 10m to the ridge.
Geoff Bennett & Tim Badcock 08/Jan/2021.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| geoff b | 25 Jan, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The guidebook describes climbing this route (in summer) in 5 shorter pitches but with thoughtful extension of gear it's not difficult to climb in the two long pitches described. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The guidebook describes climbing this route (in summer) in 5 shorter pitches but with thoughtful extension of gear it's not difficult to climb in the two long pitches described. |
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Route of Interest
Rectory Chimneys
Grade: V 6 ***
(Clogwyn y Ddysgl)