One of the finest mountain routes in the UK, The Gambit Climb has it all. Acres of exposure, superb moves, great rock and a crux at the end. What more could you ask for? The start of the route lies 5m left of a unique pocketed wall, around 60m right of Western Gully.1) 23m. Climb a crack past a hanging flake for 3m and then move left. Move down and left to gain a slab at its left edge. Follow this slab to a corner-crack. Climb this to gain a ledge, then follow a continuation crack above to reach large ledges.2) 17m. The line of least resistance leads up via a chimney to reach a large grassy ledge known as The Green Collar.3) 15m. Traverse right to gain a short chimney. Climb this to the next ledge.4) 15m. Move left along the ledge to the base of a chimney. Follow this to gain the top of the pinnacle on the left. Step right and follow the crack above to more ledges.5) 15m. Above is a rightward-sloping ledge that is followed to a square-cut corner. Climb this with difficulty via a thin crack to gain easy ground. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A very varied route on soud rock: an absolute classic!
Llanberis's answer to Grooved Arete! Start at the foot of a 10ft/3m flake crack, 55yd/53mR or Western Gully and 15ft/5m L of a pocketed wall.
1. 75ft/23m. Climb the short flake until a step L, then down, lead to a traverse across a slab into a deep corner crack. Go up this to a good ledge. Continue up a short awkward crack to a large stance.
2. 55ft/17m. Traverse R to a shallow chimney and climb it to a grassy ledge.
3. 45ft/14m. A difficult traverse R leads to a short chimney which is taken to a good ledge.
4. 70ft/21m. Ascend the chimney at the back of the ledge to the top of the pinnacle. Hand traverse into an easy corner crack which leads to a scree-covered ledge - an excellent pitch.
5. 80ft/24m. Move R up a sloing grassy ledge to a R-angled corner with a thin crack. Climb this strnuously to the top.
J.M.A. Thomson, H.O. Jones, K.J.P. Orton 1910.
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