One of the finest mountain routes in the UK, The Gambit Climb has it all. Acres of exposure, superb moves, great rock and a crux at the end. What more could you ask for? The start of the route lies 5m left of an unique pocketed wall, around 60m right of Western Gully.
1) 23m. Climb a crack for 3m passing a hanging flake, then head left. Move down and left to gain a slab at its left edge. Follow this slab to a corner-crack. Climb this to gain a ledge, then follow a continuation crack above to reach large ledges.
2) 17m. The line of least resistance leads up via a chimney to reach a large grassy ledge known as The Green Collar.
3) 15m. Traverse right to gain a short chimney. Climb this to the next ledge.
4) 15m. Move left along the ledge to the base of a chimney. Follow this to gain the top of the pinnacle on the left. Step right and follow the crack above to more ledges.
5) 15m. Above is a rightward-sloping ledge that is followed to a square-cut corner. Climb this with difficulty via a thin crack to gain easy ground. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A very varied route on soud rock: an absolute classic!
Llanberis's answer to Grooved Arete! Start at the foot of a 10ft/3m flake crack, 55yd/53mR or Western Gully and 15ft/5m L of a pocketed wall.
1. 75ft/23m. Climb the short flake until a step L, then down, lead to a traverse across a slab into a deep corner crack. Go up this to a good ledge. Continue up a short awkward crack to a large stance.
2. 55ft/17m. Traverse R to a shallow chimney and climb it to a grassy ledge.
3. 45ft/14m. A difficult traverse R leads to a short chimney which is taken to a good ledge.
4. 70ft/21m. Ascend the chimney at the back of the ledge to the top of the pinnacle. Hand traverse into an easy corner crack which leads to a scree-covered ledge - an excellent pitch.
5. 80ft/24m. Move R up a sloing grassy ledge to a R-angled corner with a thin crack. Climb this strnuously to the top.
J.M.A. Thomson, H.O. Jones, K.J.P. Orton 1910.
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