45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A spectacular linkage taking on the hold plastered sheer right wall of Central Groove, followed by a powerful overhang high up on the cliff. Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and bridge out right onto a hanging slab. Immediately climb direct to the left end of the overhang above and pull through onto the vertical wall. Ascend direct on positive holds to the belay at the top of pitch one of Central Groove.
2) 5b, 17m. Climb up and then leftwards to below a large overhang. Tackle the overhang by moving up rightwards on large but well spaced holds to a mossy crack. Move up the crack past a small tree to a ledge. Take the short easy crack to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Littlejohn, John Fowler 3.8.1968 (The direct start was climbed in the 1980s) The upper pitch is part of the route Extendable Arms. FA. Pete O'Sullivan 27.1.1979 03/Aug/1968

Ticklists

The E1 UK Roadtrip

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 5 Aug AltLd O/S
EllieWoods 13 Jul 2nd dog Couldn't get over steep bit on second pitch
with Dan
Couldn't get over steep bit on second pitch
with Dan
Hidden 13 Jul Lead rpt
Hidden 27 Jun AltLd O/S
r8ck_chick 27 Jun AltLd Lead pitch 2 as second pitch of central groove
with riff156
Lead pitch 2 as second pitch of central groove
with riff156
richgac 15 May Lead O/S Lead both pitches. Great moves round the roof on P1. P2 is a one move wonder.
with Pete
Lead both pitches. Great moves round the roof on P1. P2 is a one move wonder.
with Pete
Cbulman 30 Mar AltLd rpt
Hidden ?? Lead O/S
El Swiftos! 16 Nov, 2018 - Ropes solo.
Ropes solo.
Matt Amos 15 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S This felt hard for the grade. Loved the middle wall section
This felt hard for the grade. Loved the middle wall section
Hidden 19 Jul, 2018 2nd
ADJ85 19 Jul, 2018 2nd dog Clean first pitch walked off 2nd pitch big move and string lock off required
with Adj
Clean first pitch walked off 2nd pitch big move and string lock off required
with Adj
Gympaul 10 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Dale
with Dale
ollie1 8 Jun, 2018 AltLd Dom led first pitch, I led second - overhang tricky - got it on second attempt.
Dom led first pitch, I led second - overhang tricky - got it on second attempt.
Dominic Acland 8 Jun, 2018 AltLd Led first pitch fine but bailed seconding the second pitch, crept round the side!
with ollie1
Led first pitch fine but bailed seconding the second pitch, crept round the side!
with ollie1
ad111 22 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
Cbulman 22 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
with ad111
with ad111
David Staples 22 Apr, 2018 Lead dog Wall above the crux is quite bold (4bish) but could not see any good gear. Bailed for gear in crack of central groove but climbing on the flakes is brilliant. Great moves through the roof on the 1st pitch as well. Fun and committing.
Wall above the crux is quite bold (4bish) but could not see any good gear. Bailed for gear in crack of central groove but climbing on the flakes is brilliant. Great moves through the roof on the 1st pitch as well. Fun and committing.
David Staples 21 Apr, 2018 Lead dnf Rained off just after the crux
Rained off just after the crux
Tom.Sedgwick 24 Aug, 2017 Lead dog Took the standard Scimitar route to get to the overhang on first pitch. Took a whipper on the overhang of pitch two.
with Chris Spencer
Took the standard Scimitar route to get to the overhang on first pitch. Took a whipper on the overhang of pitch two.
with Chris Spencer
CmSpencer ?Aug, 2017 2nd
with Tom Sedgwick
with Tom Sedgwick
derico 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd β 1st Pitch. Seen some of it from route to left
with Tommy S
1st Pitch. Seen some of it from route to left
with Tommy S
rachelpearce01 15 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
George_Surf 15 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Hard! Quite bold to the roof (took the crack on the right of the slab) and then a difficult move to get on the hanging wall above. From there its awesome steep wall climbing on small positive holds. Few wires and then a cluster of cams at 1/2 height. P2 was really burly over the roof. Pretty safe but you're not on a top rope. Took a few goes to work out how to reach the jugs
Hard! Quite bold to the roof (took the crack on the right of the slab) and then a difficult move to get on the hanging wall above. From there its awesome steep wall climbing on small positive holds. Few wires and then a cluster of cams at 1/2 height. P2 was really burly over the roof. Pretty safe but you're not on a top rope. Took a few goes to work out how to reach the jugs
Hidden 24 Nov, 2016 2nd
James Smith 29 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with hattie, Melonfly
with hattie, Melonfly
Tom Seccombe ?Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Andy Lagan 25 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
Ian Miller 14 May, 2016 2nd dog Fell off over hang on P1 and P2. I could do the moves but just didnt have the strength left. Really good route.
Fell off over hang on P1 and P2. I could do the moves but just didnt have the strength left. Really good route.
Cheese Monkey ?May, 2016 Lead O/S So good!p1 was amazing but Roof on p2 is wild!
So good!p1 was amazing but Roof on p2 is wild!
nickstephens 21 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
omaskrey 18 Mar, 2016 2nd dog Cracking lead by Ed. I fell trying to move through the overhang on pitch one but managed to swing back on after a little rest and climbed straight through the second time.
with Ed Walker
Cracking lead by Ed. I fell trying to move through the overhang on pitch one but managed to swing back on after a little rest and climbed straight through the second time.
with Ed Walker
Matt77 21 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S I led pitch 2.
with Shane
I led pitch 2.
with Shane
islandlynx 21 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Led p1. Really enjoyable route. I would like to go back and link both pitches in the future
with Matt77
Led p1. Really enjoyable route. I would like to go back and link both pitches in the future
with Matt77
hornbywill 18 May, 2013 -
Hidden 12 Apr, 2004 Lead O/S
18 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 5
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set