UKH Hills - 'Fruitflancase'

46m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant crack climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right-hand side of the Main Face. Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and pull out rightwards onto a hanging slab. Climb the slab, then layback around the right end of the overhang and jam away to a stance at a large bollard on the right.
2) 4c, 18m. Climb up left to a diagonal crack, move up this and take the tricky vertical crack to a ledge. Move right to a belay below a clean-cut corner.
3) 4b, 9m. Pull up steeply left to a crack on the left arete of the corner. Move up the crack and finish up the wall slightly left to avoid vegetation. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A brilliant climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right side of the Main Face.
1) 5a. Climb the first 3-4 meters of Central Groove to the ledge and then move right on to the hanging slab. Climb this up right and then jam/layback the crack above around onto the face. Continue sustained jamming up this crack to a stance on the diagonal rake.
2) 4c. Move left to a short crack and continue up to the ledge belay below a clean cut corner (final pitch of Central groove).
3) 5a. Start just left of the corner below the overhanging arete. Step up to jam the crack that runs the length of the arete and follow this to the top. Alternatively, climb the clean cut corner of Central Groove at 4b.

FA. A.McFarlane 1969.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Kernow , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , The E1 UK Roadtrip , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9 , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist

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User	Date		Notes
rhysvicevans	23 May, 2023	Show βeta βeta: There is a small bird's nest in the crack on the slab. Might be best to avoid disturbing for now.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: There is a small bird's nest in the crack on the slab. Might be best to avoid disturbing for now.
Jcstewart	2 May, 2022	Show βeta βeta: A great climb, thought the crack was very impressive some good fist jams are required. Personally felt it was harder than a 5a. This could just be my bad technique though.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A great climb, thought the crack was very impressive some good fist jams are required. Personally felt it was harder than a 5a. This could just be my bad technique though.
SJPowderham1	13 Jun, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Thought provoking opening moves on the hanging slab leading to unrelenting awkward crackness on the face. Shady at least.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Thought provoking opening moves on the hanging slab leading to unrelenting awkward crackness on the face. Shady at least.
tim_western112	29 Jun, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Awkward climbing on the upper crack on pitch 1, not the perfect jams that I was expecting - got very pumped! Felt significantly harder than E1 5a so maybe I was doing something wrong. Happy to have kept it clean and bagged the onsight.
Show beta βeta: Awkward climbing on the upper crack on pitch 1, not the perfect jams that I was expecting - got very pumped! Felt significantly harder than E1 5a so maybe I was doing something wrong. Happy to have kept it clean and bagged the onsight.
jrobertshaw	20 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Black nut stuck in crack just before coming around overhang. Is now in situ gear, and v bomber.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Black nut stuck in crack just before coming around overhang. Is now in situ gear, and v bomber.
Jacob Eagles	4 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: P1, P2 (Gideon line) - Jake P3 (central groove line) -Simon	βeta?
Show beta βeta: P1, P2 (Gideon line) - Jake P3 (central groove line) -Simon
Fiend	12 Aug, 2007	Show βeta βeta: A classic E0! Can be easily done in one pitch with careful ropework, and has a nice "big" feel done that way. Some rambling bits but the jamming sections and exposure make up for it.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A classic E0! Can be easily done in one pitch with careful ropework, and has a nice "big" feel done that way. Some rambling bits but the jamming sections and exposure make up for it.