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46m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant crack-climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right-hand side of the Main Face. Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and pull out rightwards onto a hanging slab. Climb the slab, then layback around the right end of the overhang and jam away to a stance at a large bollard on the right.
2) 4c, 18m. Climb up left to a diagonal crack, move up this and take the tricky vertical crack to a ledge. Move right to a belay below a clean-cut corner.
3) 4b, 9m. Pull up steeply left to a crack on the left arete of the corner. Move up the crack and finish up the wall slightly left to avoid vegetation. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A brilliant climb of sustained interest taking the steepest section of the sheer wall on the right side of the Main Face.
1) 5a. Climb the first 3-4 meters of Central Groove to the ledge and then move right on to the hanging slab. Climb this up right and then jam/layback the crack above around onto the face. Continue sustained jamming up this crack to a stance on the diagonal rake.
2) 4c. Move left to a short crack and continue up to the ledge belay below a clean cut corner (final pitch of Central groove).
3) 5a. Start just left of the corner below the overhanging arete. Step up to jam the crack that runs the length of the arete and follow this to the top. Alternatively, climb the clean cut corner of Central Groove at 4b.

FA. A.McFarlane 1969.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Kernow, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, The E1 UK Roadtrip, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), The Devonman Cometh- Living in Exeter Top200.

Feedback

User Date Notes
tim_western112 29 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Awkward climbing on the upper crack on pitch 1, not the perfect jams that I was expecting - got very pumped! Felt significantly harder than E1 5a so maybe I was doing something wrong. Happy to have kept it clean and bagged the onsight.
 
Show beta
βeta: Awkward climbing on the upper crack on pitch 1, not the perfect jams that I was expecting - got very pumped! Felt significantly harder than E1 5a so maybe I was doing something wrong. Happy to have kept it clean and bagged the onsight.
jrobertshaw 20 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Black nut stuck in crack just before coming around overhang. Is now in situ gear, and v bomber.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Black nut stuck in crack just before coming around overhang. Is now in situ gear, and v bomber.
Jacob Eagles 4 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P1, P2 (Gideon line) - Jake P3 (central groove line) -Simon
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1, P2 (Gideon line) - Jake P3 (central groove line) -Simon
Fiend 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A classic E0! Can be easily done in one pitch with careful ropework, and has a nice "big" feel done that way. Some rambling bits but the jamming sections and exposure make up for it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A classic E0! Can be easily done in one pitch with careful ropework, and has a nice "big" feel done that way. Some rambling bits but the jamming sections and exposure make up for it.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 51
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Oesophagus

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chudleigh Rocks)