Rockfax Description
A chimney climb which shares the initial pitch of East Face before branching into the left-hand chimney and following this to the summit. Often wet.
1) IV+, 30m. Climb the chimney to a roof. Move right below this then continue direct to a thread.
2) IV+, 30m. Climb the chimney for a few metres then traverse onto the left wall. Exit the chimney and continue left to a yellow face, and climb this to a peg belay on loose yellow rock.
3) IV, 50m. Move left and climb the wall above to enter the next chimney. Climb this to its end then move left on good holds, aiming for a large black chimney.
4) IV+, 50m. Move left into the chimney - often wet - and climb this on the right then left walls. Bridge up to reach a large ledge. Belay on the left.
5) IV, 25m. Step back into the chimney and climb behind a large chockstone.
6) IV, 55m. Climb the left side of the chimney to another chockstone. Climb past this then continue to the top of the chimney.
7) I, 100m. Continue easily on scree to reach the summit. © Rockfax

FA. Goedeke, Hornburg 1989 15/Jun/1989.

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