A fantastic chimney climb on good rock. It often suffers from seepage.
Start at the base of the face's rightmost chimney.
1) IV+, 30m. As for pitch 1 of Via Goedeke.
2) IV, 20m. Continue up the chimney, passing various chockstones, then move onto the right wall for a couple of moves. Move back left and climb the chimney to a small ledge and two pegs.
3) IV, 45m. Follow the chimney direct, circumventing two successive bulges on the left, to reach a small ledge.
4) III+, 40m. Continue in the same line, moving onto the right wall briefly, then back left.
5) IV-, 45m. Follow the chimney past large chockstones to a stance on top of the second of these.
6) IV+, 25m. Bridge up the chimney then, level with a peg, move left onto the face to reach a diagonal crack. Follow this back right to a well-pegged stance on top of another chockstone.
7) IV-, 45m. Continue direct up the chimney, passing a further three chockstones, then exit left. Belay on a good thread below the summit plateau. © Rockfax
FA. Castiglioni, Detassis 1935 15/Jun/1935.
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