Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

24m.

Rockfax Description
Climb to the slanting roof which is followed rightwards to its end. Make a committing move back left, then up eventually to good holds and better gear. Cracks lead to the belay. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson, Phil Gibson 1983.

Ticklists

Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - Rockfax 24 Mar, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure of exact line. At this grade it seems you need to go quite far right before pulling back left. The more direct version would go but not at E2 5b. No peg or thread any more.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure of exact line. At this grade it seems you need to go quite far right before pulling back left. The more direct version would go but not at E2 5b. No peg or thread any more.
Dave Garnett 10 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Hmmm. Bits break off... but at least the gear holds!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hmmm. Bits break off... but at least the gear holds!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Dovedale

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 4
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Delicatessen

Grade: E2 5c ***
(High Tor)

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