UKH Hills - 'Claire-Chazal'

500m.

Rockfax Description
II, 450m. An excellent route with a difficult crux when it is anything other than fat.
1) 100m of snow leads to 65 degree ice and mixed ground. Climb this and the snow slope above before drifting left up more moderate mixed terrain to reach the foot of the crux chimney.
2) Climb the chimney (tough when dry) and exit leftwards via a thin mixed move.
3) A short mixed section leads to a snow slope, which is followed to the foot of a steep section of ice.
4) Climb this in two pitches (85 degrees in places) to reach a snow slope above. Most teams abseil off from here but it is also possible to carry on to the ridgeline by climbing 150m of 65 degree mixed terrain. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
291 in snow ice and mixed,II,4

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User	Date		Notes
Misha	17 Jan, 2020	Show βeta βeta: The ice pitch at the top just about goes in one 60m pitch. The ice section is only 15-20m, then it’s steep snow.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The ice pitch at the top just about goes in one 60m pitch. The ice section is only 15-20m, then it’s steep snow.
Misha	17 Jan, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Two of the abseils were off spikes with just the rope round them to avoid having to down climb the snow slopes. We still had to do some down climbing after two of the abseils, so watch the ends of the rope! 60m ropes required.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Two of the abseils were off spikes with just the rope round them to avoid having to down climb the snow slopes. We still had to do some down climbing after two of the abseils, so watch the ends of the rope! 60m ropes required.
Misha	17 Jan, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Take a good 10m of tat for the abseil anchors as they can be in a poor state. We added tat at most of the anchors (Jan 2020). The anchors above the ice pitch and to ab over schrund were ok at that time. The anchor below the crux could do with a load of new tat brought together and equalised. We added some new tat and a wire but didn’t have enough to sort it properly.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Take a good 10m of tat for the abseil anchors as they can be in a poor state. We added tat at most of the anchors (Jan 2020). The anchors above the ice pitch and to ab over schrund were ok at that time. The anchor below the crux could do with a load of new tat brought together and equalised. We added some new tat and a wire but didn’t have enough to sort it properly.