450m.

Rockfax Description
III, 400m, 4 - 5 hours. A brilliant climb which sees far more ascents than the Integrale and was included as one of Gaston R├ębuffat's 100 Finest Routes book. It shares its difficult sections with the Integrale but reaches it by moderate climbing up the face.
Approach - From the Refuge du Couvercle, follow the high-level path back to the Montenvers train for 50m and then cut right up to the foot of the tiny glacier/snow patch at the foot of the south face. This takes 20 minutes from the hut.
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb up 50m of glacier-polished slabs and runnels to reach a long ledge system leading out left. Follow this across the foot of the face to where it steepens into a wide chimney with a boulder blocking it.
2) 4b. Climb the chimney (4b, awkward) to access another ledge system, this time leading up and right. Follow this for 50m and then climb a wide gully on the left (4a maximum) for 100m to hit the south ridge itself and junction with South Ridge Integrale.
3) Drop onto the far side of the ridge and climb up an easy broken gully for 50m before moving left onto the ridge crest and going along this for 25m. Cut left across a ledge system for 20m to the foot of a 70m chimney system, below and left of a boulder which is somehow perched on top of a pinnacle on the ridge.
4) 4c. Climb the chimney (4b) for one pitch onto a large ledge. Traverse right for 5m and climb a second chimney (4c), which is steep but easier than it looks, to a belay 10m below the ridgeline, beneath harder-looking climbing.
5) 5c. The steep ground leading to the notch is thrutchy and tough with a pack on (5c). Bring up your second and descend for 3m onto the right-hand side of the ridge before traversing for 10m to a left-leaning corner. Climb this (3c) to reach a large ledge on the ridge crest.
6) 5b. Drop off onto the left of the ridge and traverse for 30m before making a long step down over a gap to the foot of a corner with a couple of wooden wedges and slings in it. Climb this (5b, strenuous) and a narrow 4c chimney above to a good ledge.
7) 4c. Downclimb the ridge for a couple of metres then climb a wide crack, past a couple of chockstones, to another large ledge. Climb a crack up and left to a notch, then head up the crack (which also has a large chockstone, 4c) to yet another terrace.
8) 5c. A final short chimney leads to a short, steep wall. Head up this (5c) and follow the ridge more easily for 50m to the summit.
Descent - Descend the south face. Most of the descent is exposed downclimbing and requires concentration. It is possible to abseil virtually all of the technical sections using fixed anchors (some of which might require backing up). The ability to keep up a good pace while downclimbing safely and making the transition between abseiling, soloing and moving together on the way down is the key to getting off the peak efficiently. All of the abseils are shorter than 25m so a single 50m rope is sufficient for any of these routes. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
At the foot of the south face where two routes start you can see a prominant couloir leading up the face. Start climbing up this normally snow free couloir and immediately turn left across a system of ledges for 200m. Over these ledges protection can be found from the odd bolt and from putting slings over pillars of rock. It is possible to move together here.

Where the ledges end ascend up and to the right up easy ground before turning left again to reach the ridge below a large gendarme which looks like a double headed hammer. It may be necessary to pitch the last move onto the ridge. On the ridge continue up and then alond a ledge on the south west face to a diedre. Climb a crack on the back (IV, 4m) and then a chimney above (III). Further up the wall is a vertical wall (V+, 3m) which can be bypassed by a very exposed crack on the left ((IV). It may be necessary to aid climb this wall. Rocky ridge leads then to the summit. 4 and a half hr from hut.

Bruhl, Valluet, Ravanel and Belin 02/Sep/1928

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Webster 17 Sep AltLd didnt follow the rockfax topo (its pretty useless and usually wrong). instead used the cham rock and ice guide which takes a very different line in the upper half and is only 4c not 5c! still managed to go wrong and traverse too far on the west face and climbed the horrendous choss gully which is a death trap in summer instead of the nice solid-looking cracks that we should have taken! survived to tell the tale but more through luck than skill... cant comment on the rockfax grade or description as we didnt see much of that line.
didnt follow the rockfax topo (its pretty useless and usually wrong). instead used the cham rock and ice guide which takes a very different line in the upper half and is only 4c not 5c! still managed to go wrong and traverse too far on the west face and climbed the horrendous choss gully which is a death trap in summer instead of the nice solid-looking cracks that we should have taken! survived to tell the tale but more through luck than skill... cant comment on the rockfax grade or description as we didnt see much of that line.
Phil_Brock 9 Aug AltLd Good alpine rock route, lots of moving together interspersed with short technical pitches. Did in boots, French freed the 3m wall (only bit that really needs rock shoes) but rest was clean. Rockfax description for first half of ridge wasn't easy to follow so just followed the most logical route and think we did most of the technical pitches described.
Good alpine rock route, lots of moving together interspersed with short technical pitches. Did in boots, French freed the 3m wall (only bit that really needs rock shoes) but rest was clean. Rockfax description for first half of ridge wasn't easy to follow so just followed the most logical route and think we did most of the technical pitches described.
Hidden 14 Jul AltLd O/S
Matt Boyd 14 Jul AltLd O/S Climbed a combination of the South and West ridge lines, dropped down onto the West side of the South ridge for easier ground (advice of a Topo that highlighted an 'escape' route of only 4c), as we didn't bring rock shoes and were concerned the 5c pitches would present some difficulty in boots. This ended up becoming an adventure... Having dropped on to the West side of the South ridge, we crossed a large chock boulder wedged in the choas gully that comes down from the summit. Having gained the Western ridge we climbed a series of smaller ledges to reach a large flat area of boulders that looked out over the abyss several thousand meters below... From here climbing a series of diagonal cracks that lead to the summit of the Western ridge line, which joined back onto the South ridge line and eventual summit of the Aiguille du Moine. The descent from here was mostly pleasant, several abseils and some involved down climbing while following a series of cairns, some what of a long day in the end :)
with Neil Dickson
Climbed a combination of the South and West ridge lines, dropped down onto the West side of the South ridge for easier ground (advice of a Topo that highlighted an 'escape' route of only 4c), as we didn't bring rock shoes and were concerned the 5c pitches would present some difficulty in boots. This ended up becoming an adventure... Having dropped on to the West side of the South ridge, we crossed a large chock boulder wedged in the choas gully that comes down from the summit. Having gained the Western ridge we climbed a series of smaller ledges to reach a large flat area of boulders that looked out over the abyss several thousand meters below... From here climbing a series of diagonal cracks that lead to the summit of the Western ridge line, which joined back onto the South ridge line and eventual summit of the Aiguille du Moine. The descent from here was mostly pleasant, several abseils and some involved down climbing while following a series of cairns, some what of a long day in the end :)
with Neil Dickson
Ian Lemon 14 Jul AltLd O/S Awesome route, awesome summit, walked back to the valley after...Big day but great craic!
with Jamie
Awesome route, awesome summit, walked back to the valley after...Big day but great craic!
with Jamie
Brown 26 Sep, 2018 AltLd
with Lilifa
with Lilifa
HosteDenis ?Aug, 2018 -
yakov 2 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Proper epic! Expected somewhat of a walk in the park and started out in a leisurely pace. Went left too early which took us up into more challenging terrain than the guide book had suggested. Eventually we found ourselves back on the route after some fantastic bonus pitches. When we finally got to the top a storm was just arriving. 15 centimeters of hail and some fierce lightning ensued, endless down climbing, abseiling, down climbing, stuck ropes and some very spicy climbing up the ropes. Last couple of abseils were done inside of a massive waterfall. Back at the hut at 10pm soaking wet and shaken. A huge lesson!
Proper epic! Expected somewhat of a walk in the park and started out in a leisurely pace. Went left too early which took us up into more challenging terrain than the guide book had suggested. Eventually we found ourselves back on the route after some fantastic bonus pitches. When we finally got to the top a storm was just arriving. 15 centimeters of hail and some fierce lightning ensued, endless down climbing, abseiling, down climbing, stuck ropes and some very spicy climbing up the ropes. Last couple of abseils were done inside of a massive waterfall. Back at the hut at 10pm soaking wet and shaken. A huge lesson!
QuentinSu 20 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Max Streeton 20 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Tom thorne
with Tom thorne
Everetta ??, 2016 AltLd O/S
with pops , Wolfie
with pops , Wolfie
jcw ??, 2016 -
Tim Sparrow 13 Aug, 2015 - Moved together in big boots for all except 3 harder sections. Descent down S face with a few abs. Axe dropped into schrund ... But retrieved!
with Geoff Thomas
Moved together in big boots for all except 3 harder sections. Descent down S face with a few abs. Axe dropped into schrund ... But retrieved!
with Geoff Thomas
Hidden 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd
Rob84 12 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Gets D in our guide which felt fair, given the long moving together approach section and the corner pitches being 'proper' climbing in places. Great route with great quality rock all the way, even on the easier sections where you would normally expect at least a bit of choss. Also longer than the height gain might lead you to believe as there's a fair bit of weaving around and traversing. Views from the summit have to be some of the best in the range
with mel_1
Gets D in our guide which felt fair, given the long moving together approach section and the corner pitches being 'proper' climbing in places. Great route with great quality rock all the way, even on the easier sections where you would normally expect at least a bit of choss. Also longer than the height gain might lead you to believe as there's a fair bit of weaving around and traversing. Views from the summit have to be some of the best in the range
with mel_1
Hidden 6 Aug, 2015 -
Auld Giffer ?Aug, 2015 -
JonHarvey ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Richard Nurse
with Richard Nurse
Mark Salter 10 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Chris Shorrock
with Chris Shorrock
derryclimbs 4 Jul, 2015 AltLd Fantastic route up. stashed gear and moved really fast in rock shoes all the way up. Easy route finding as per the guidebook. 4 hours to summit. Descent via normal route via cairns proved a little tricky, but would be much worse in less perfect conditions.
Fantastic route up. stashed gear and moved really fast in rock shoes all the way up. Easy route finding as per the guidebook. 4 hours to summit. Descent via normal route via cairns proved a little tricky, but would be much worse in less perfect conditions.
JackM92 12 Jun, 2015 - Harder than expected. Cold, snowing and generally unpleasent, slabby descent covered in poor quality snow so abselied off.
Harder than expected. Cold, snowing and generally unpleasent, slabby descent covered in poor quality snow so abselied off.
alexm198 12 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Guidebook time of 4.5 hours to the summit is pretty ambitious. Moved together until the first tricky sections above the hammer on the ridge. Cruxes on ridge were hard in boots. Descent from summit is complex and was covered in big patches of snow. Bits of down climbing interspersed with about 8x30m abseils on tat of varying quality, the last of which put us IN the schrund. Ah, alpinism.
with JackM92
Guidebook time of 4.5 hours to the summit is pretty ambitious. Moved together until the first tricky sections above the hammer on the ridge. Cruxes on ridge were hard in boots. Descent from summit is complex and was covered in big patches of snow. Bits of down climbing interspersed with about 8x30m abseils on tat of varying quality, the last of which put us IN the schrund. Ah, alpinism.
with JackM92
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Hidden 18 Aug, 2014 -
Rumbo 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd Slow enough to find an impressive thunderstorm waiting at the top, which obliged us to abseil quite a bit of the descent route.
with Dougle
Slow enough to find an impressive thunderstorm waiting at the top, which obliged us to abseil quite a bit of the descent route.
with Dougle
AnnaBacklund ?Aug, 2014 2nd Ridge covered in snow and ice, making D+ quite hard...
Ridge covered in snow and ice, making D+ quite hard...
Hidden 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd
jimmatthews 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd Decended via South Face (Normal Route)
Decended via South Face (Normal Route)
Michael 25 Jul, 2014 -
jogle03 16 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden 1 Oct, 2013 -
Hidden 28 Jul, 2013 Lead G/U
Palindrome 28 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Tobias at Home ??, 2013 -
mrmattwright 11 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Comfortably outside guidebook time, again. Amazing route and relatively straightfowards ascent. Descent is quite difficult, with some hard route finding. Started snowing on the last 2 abseils, and 20 cm in the hut over night so pretty damn pleased we did not get stuck on the route. The ladders down from the hut in the pissing rain were.....spicy.
with Adrian Fletcher
Comfortably outside guidebook time, again. Amazing route and relatively straightfowards ascent. Descent is quite difficult, with some hard route finding. Started snowing on the last 2 abseils, and 20 cm in the hut over night so pretty damn pleased we did not get stuck on the route. The ladders down from the hut in the pissing rain were.....spicy.
with Adrian Fletcher
Nigel Edley 15 Aug, 2012 AltLd
Jim Brownlow 15 Aug, 2012 AltLd
with Nigel Edley, Iain Mount
with Nigel Edley, Iain Mount
caradoc 6 Aug, 2012 AltLd Enjoyable route finding, great positions. Switched to rock boots on pitch 3. Descent down normal route confusing, should have gone left at 'the table' not right towards the horrible couloir.
with john b
Enjoyable route finding, great positions. Switched to rock boots on pitch 3. Descent down normal route confusing, should have gone left at 'the table' not right towards the horrible couloir.
with john b
AlexxelA 2 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S Amazing route, but we reckoned it to be harder than AD- Descent down the normal route took careful routefinding, the cairns are not all trustworthy!
Amazing route, but we reckoned it to be harder than AD- Descent down the normal route took careful routefinding, the cairns are not all trustworthy!
gravity 12 Jul, 2012 AltLd dnf
with notgnarly, Yvonne, Manik
with notgnarly, Yvonne, Manik
Hidden 12 Jul, 2012 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Sep, 2011 -
Hidden 23 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Binder 23 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Excellent first AD route.
with Chris L
Excellent first AD route.
with Chris L
NB Pixel 23 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 -
Kirill 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 12 Jul, 2011 -
Hidden 10 Aug, 2010 -
Guy Wilson ??, 2010 -
JdotP 13 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Awesome route! Mainly moved together. Climbed as 2 ropes of 2 then abseiled together down the south face.
with Tom Barraclough, Luke Dangerfield, Sir Faffalot
Awesome route! Mainly moved together. Climbed as 2 ropes of 2 then abseiled together down the south face.
with Tom Barraclough, Luke Dangerfield, Sir Faffalot
Diggler 4 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with jonah
with jonah
Nic DW ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Great route though slow on the descent. Climbed on a rope with Tom B just behind John P and Rob.
with Tom B
Great route though slow on the descent. Climbed on a rope with Tom B just behind John P and Rob.
with Tom B
Roberttaylor ??, 2009 AltLd O/S Amazing route, with John. Pulled on a hex for the toughest pitch.
with JdotP
Amazing route, with John. Pulled on a hex for the toughest pitch.
with JdotP
Hidden ?Sep, 2008 AltLd dnf
david0811 3 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Mark Reid
with Mark Reid
hamish2016 ?Jul, 2008 AltLd had to run all the way down the mer de glace (and down to Chamonix since we missed the last train) and drive richard to the airport so he didnt miss his flight home.
with chris burn, Richard Hirons
had to run all the way down the mer de glace (and down to Chamonix since we missed the last train) and drive richard to the airport so he didnt miss his flight home.
with chris burn, Richard Hirons
SWalls ?Jun, 2008 -
with plummet
with plummet
Hidden 3 Sep, 2006 AltLd
Hidden 30 Jul, 2006 AltLd
tom.e 13 Jul, 2006 - Harder than expected, tricky moves in big boots.
with Charlie Everett
Harder than expected, tricky moves in big boots.
with Charlie Everett
chrissloan84 ?Jul, 2005 -
clams ??, 2005 - With Ben and Liam
with AD
With Ben and Liam
with AD
mike.moss ??, 2004 Lead O/S Can't remember my partner's name, met him on the Argetiere campsite.
Can't remember my partner's name, met him on the Argetiere campsite.
Hidden ?Jul, 2003 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2003 AltLd
Hidden 11 Jun, 2003 AltLd
Rossco-p ?Jul, 2000 AltLd
with Anthony Garvey
with Anthony Garvey
innes ?Aug, 1999 AltLd O/S
with Jim
with Jim
butteredfrog ??, 1998 -
tompercy ?Jul, 1996 -
with Amos Preminger
with Amos Preminger
auld al ?Jul, 1995 -
Ken lindsay ??, 1995 AltLd O/S
with With Alan
with With Alan
Hidden 23 Aug, 1994 Lead
Hidden ??, 1991 -
Hidden 24 Aug, 1980 Lead
Mike C ?Jul, 1979 AltLd
with Pete Vallely
with Pete Vallely
Bolt Phobia 9 Jul, 1975 AltLd
with Kit Spencer
with Kit Spencer
Nigel Bond 29 Aug, 1974 Lead Time 5hrs we left ice axe and crampons at the start of the rock climb great route
with Dave Jolliffe
Time 5hrs we left ice axe and crampons at the start of the rock climb great route
with Dave Jolliffe
Rob Davies ?Aug, 1974 AltLd Called SW Ridge in guidebook
with Joseph Cullen (ICMC)
Called SW Ridge in guidebook
with Joseph Cullen (ICMC)
uphillnow ??, 1973 -
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Votes cast 9
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