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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

21m.

Rockfax Description
Move up and then left to beneath a thin crack. Ascend the crack and move left to more hard moves and a precarious rockover before easier ground is encountered. © Rockfax

FA. Will Jones Aug/1996.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland Climbs

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User Date Notes
DylanAsena 30 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Harder crux for the shorter climber. 1st rp
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Harder crux for the shorter climber. 1st rp
mwillmott 15 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Didn't use fridge hugging beta, did some lay backing followed with high feet. Amazing route
Show beta
βeta: Didn't use fridge hugging beta, did some lay backing followed with high feet. Amazing route
JorgeR 18 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Why not 7a? Portland heights and Wolfgang forever are more difficult for me. Sequence of moves found out on 24th Feb. Climbed today second go.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Why not 7a? Portland heights and Wolfgang forever are more difficult for me. Sequence of moves found out on 24th Feb. Climbed today second go.
Ben Stokes 15 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Actually, I'm glad it's not there anymore. I thought the moves as they are now were really good.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Actually, I'm glad it's not there anymore. I thought the moves as they are now were really good.
Ben Stokes 14 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Out of interest where was this jug???
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Out of interest where was this jug???
steve taylor 20 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Andy Long has replaced the old bolts with staples
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Andy Long has replaced the old bolts with staples

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 57
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ariane V

Grade: 7b ***
(Wallsend South)

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