Rockfax Description
A classic historical product. “I decided to put three or four holds in a line on the top pitch which made it exactly the same grade as the rest of the route.” - Pete Livesey, OTE 35.
1) 6a, 30m. Start up The Diedre then traverse left to a short leftward-facing corner. Climb up this then trend left to an open groove and easy ground. Belay on the ledge on the right.
2) 6a, 20m. Climb up to a bush in the roof, step left into the scoop (peg may be missing). Follow the scoop past Pete Livesey's infamous created holds to the upper break. Swing left for 3m then pull up another scoop to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Livesey, J.Lawrence 1976.
Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics , Ultimate E5 ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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GDes | 7 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Bush grown back with a vengance. A bit of a scrap to find the thread and holds, but not too much of a prob. Thread in very good nick. Where did the peg used to be? just before the crux moves leaving the top of the scopp? bomber nuts there, so no need to replace it. Amazing route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Bush grown back with a vengance. A bit of a scrap to find the thread and holds, but not too much of a prob. Thread in very good nick. Where did the peg used to be? just before the crux moves leaving the top of the scopp? bomber nuts there, so no need to replace it. Amazing route. |
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GeoffG | 8 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2. Removed as much of the bush as I could and replaced the thread just above it. Feels much safer now. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2. Removed as much of the bush as I could and replaced the thread just above it. Feels much safer now. |
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Hidden1 | 1 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: First pitch only | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First pitch only |
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Round Crag)