UKC

Climbs 307
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces E

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Stretched out on Man With A Gun © kevavery

Crag features

One of Yorkshire's 'Big Three' limestone crags (the other two being Gordale and Malham). Mostly higher grade sport climbing but there are some very good trad lines including The Diedre(E2), Central Wall(E4), Deja Vu(E5) and Balas(E5). Classic sport routes include The Directissima(6c), Frankie Comes to Kilnsey(7b+), Dominatrix(7c), Comedy(7c), The Ashes(7c+), Let them Eat Jelly Beans(8a), Urgent Action(8a+), True North(8c) and Northern Lights(9a). Aiding the classic Kilnsey main overhang route is an exciting option for a wet day.

Approach notes

There is some limited parking in laybys at the southern end of the crag. There is a large layby 200m to the north of the cliff.  There is also plenty of roadside parking on the lane leading across the river to Conistone about 400m to the south. FINALLY please do not park opposite or obstruct the farmers gateway.

No Access Issues

The landowner does not like permadraws left in place on projects - please remove your kit between attempts wherever possible.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins also frequently nest between May-September. Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

Left a size 40.5 pair of La Sportiva solutions under near Directissima on Thursday evening the 4th of June for a friend to collect Friday morning. Someone took them - please contact me if you saw anyone grab them!
Siara Fabbri - 07/Jun/20
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Climbs at this crag

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