Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
The polished sloping shelf of the Verandah is gained at its bottom right-hand corner, usually by a torrid struggle - combined tactics are frowned upon! From the scoop, traverse left to finish up the exposed arete of the buttress. The climbing is no harder then 4a once you get going. The start is worth f5 for a grovel or a stylish f5+ if you rock in using the rounded rib. The direct start overt the roof is f7A+. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage Starred VDiffs , Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage 'Difficults' , Stanage green spot starters , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pascalo 5 Mar, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Both boulders at the top are wobbly. They probably must be avoided for belaying.
βeta?
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βeta: Both boulders at the top are wobbly. They probably must be avoided for belaying.
Michael Hood 3 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: For all those whingeing about the grade, remember that the HVD 5b grade has been retained for decades as a historical "in-joke", in reality it would be something like S 4c/5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For all those whingeing about the grade, remember that the HVD 5b grade has been retained for decades as a historical "in-joke", in reality it would be something like S 4c/5a.
MorganMcGlade 2 Apr, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Very polished start
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very polished start
seanwilson 31 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Mental start move for a HVD!
βeta?
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βeta: Mental start move for a HVD!
JohnBson 23 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Play with it and you'll get it
βeta?
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βeta: Play with it and you'll get it
ericinbristol 24 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Agreed. Only 5b if you do it wrong. Maybe 4b if you do it right - it's just very un-obvious. Great fun trying to work it out!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agreed. Only 5b if you do it wrong. Maybe 4b if you do it right - it's just very un-obvious. Great fun trying to work it out!
Chris Fitzhugh 18 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: 4c is reasonable, if you look for and find the easier way. Calling it 5b just makes people persevere with a diabolical hard move or two! The solution, if and when it comes, is quite unexpected and delightful, especially for a V.diff leader of medium height. Would that in future all 5b's could thus be led with sudden ease. No combined tactics! The old guide books got it right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 4c is reasonable, if you look for and find the easier way. Calling it 5b just makes people persevere with a diabolical hard move or two! The solution, if and when it comes, is quite unexpected and delightful, especially for a V.diff leader of medium height. Would that in future all 5b's could thus be led with sudden ease. No combined tactics! The old guide books got it right.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 84
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 90
Votes cast 77
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flying Buttress

Grade: HVD 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

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