There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The polished sloping shelf of the Verandah is gained at its bottom right-hand corner, usually by a torrid struggle - combined tactics are frowned upon! From the scoop, traverse left to finish up the exposed arete of the buttress. The climbing is no harder then 4a once you get going. The start is worth f5 for a grovel or a stylish f5+ if you rock in using the rounded rib. The direct start overt the roof is f7A+. © Rockfax
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage Starred VDiffs , Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage 'Difficults' , Stanage green spot starters , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage 1956
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Pascalo | 5 Mar, 2023 |
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βeta: Both boulders at the top are wobbly. They probably must be avoided for belaying. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Both boulders at the top are wobbly. They probably must be avoided for belaying. |
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Michael Hood | 3 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: For all those whingeing about the grade, remember that the HVD 5b grade has been retained for decades as a historical "in-joke", in reality it would be something like S 4c/5a. | βeta? | |
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βeta: For all those whingeing about the grade, remember that the HVD 5b grade has been retained for decades as a historical "in-joke", in reality it would be something like S 4c/5a. |
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MorganMcGlade | 2 Apr, 2020 |
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βeta: Very polished start | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very polished start |
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seanwilson | 31 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Mental start move for a HVD! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Mental start move for a HVD! |
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JohnBson | 23 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Play with it and you'll get it | βeta? | |
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βeta: Play with it and you'll get it |
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ericinbristol | 24 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Agreed. Only 5b if you do it wrong. Maybe 4b if you do it right - it's just very un-obvious. Great fun trying to work it out! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Agreed. Only 5b if you do it wrong. Maybe 4b if you do it right - it's just very un-obvious. Great fun trying to work it out! |
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Chris Fitzhugh | 18 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: 4c is reasonable, if you look for and find the easier way. Calling it 5b just makes people persevere with a diabolical hard move or two! The solution, if and when it comes, is quite unexpected and delightful, especially for a V.diff leader of medium height. Would that in future all 5b's could thus be led with sudden ease. No combined tactics! The old guide books got it right. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: 4c is reasonable, if you look for and find the easier way. Calling it 5b just makes people persevere with a diabolical hard move or two! The solution, if and when it comes, is quite unexpected and delightful, especially for a V.diff leader of medium height. Would that in future all 5b's could thus be led with sudden ease. No combined tactics! The old guide books got it right. |
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Grade: HVD 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)