Author Mark Glaister and Pete Oxley
Published Rockfax (2021)
ISBN 1-873341-47-6



The Dorset Rockfax covers the superb sport and trad climbing in Portland, Swanage and Lulworth on the Dorset coast. This amazing area is one of the most popular sport climbing areas in the country with a huge number of routes across the grades and great appeal to climbers of all abilities. Thousands of brilliant routes and a relatively friendly climate mean that the area is always busy with climbers.

The 2021 edition of the Dorset Rockfax is the biggest Rockfax to date with 2700 routes on over 600 pages. It is a complete update of previous guides and released in print and digital at the same time. All the crags have been re-photographed using aerial photography and a new set of detailed maps created to make finding and choosing your chosen route even easier than ever.

Other editions of this guidebook
Dorset Rockfax (2012)
Dorset Rockfax (2005)
Dorset Rockfax (2000)
Dorset Rockfax (1994)

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Crags covered by this Guide
Dorset crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Battleship Back Cliff 110 Limestone W
Battleship Edge 82 Limestone W
Beeston Cliff 84 Limestone E
Blackers Hole 82 Limestone S
Blacknor Beach 273 Limestone all
Blacknor Central 110 Limestone SW
Blacknor Far South 73 Limestone W
Blacknor North 131 Limestone W
Blacknor South 83 Limestone W
Boulder Ruckle 291 Limestone S
Cattle Troughs 108 Limestone S
Cave Hole 120 Limestone E
Cheyne Cliff 332 Limestone E
Coastguard North 60 Limestone W
Coastguard South 101 Limestone W
Cormorant Ledge 45 Limestone S
Dancing Ledge 179 Limestone S
Dungecroft Quarry 74 Limestone E
Fisherman's Ledge 134 Limestone S
Godnor 104 Limestone E
Guillemot Ledge 72 Limestone S
Hedbury 117 Limestone S
Lighthouse Area 410 Limestone all
Lost Valley 86 Limestone all
Lulworth 245 Limestone S
Neddyfields 157 Limestone E
Nicodemus Knob 47 Limestone SW
Southwell Landslips 214 Limestone all
Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff 136 Limestone S
The Cuttings 176 Limestone SE
The New Cuttings 120 Limestone SE
The Promenade 150 Limestone S
Wallsend North 147 Limestone W
Wallsend South 136 Limestone W
White Hole 70 Limestone SW
Winspit 199 Limestone S

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Guidebook Correction

Dancing Ledge
James Clark22
23 Mar, 2023

A large block has fallen off this climb removing all of the first corner crack feature to the right of the narrow ledge. I don't know if this climb can still be done but if it can it's much harder than 5c. This could be 6c or harder now to mantle the narrow ledge and make it past the second bolt (at least I couldn't do it anyway).

The topo for these three climbs are in the incorrect places within the Rockfax 2021 guidebook and the Rockfax App Line 14: "Thin on top" should be where line 15 "Samphire and Steel" is marked. There's no bolts where this route is marked. Line 15: "Samphire and Steel" should be where line 16 is marked Line 16: "More Soap, Less Shampoo" should be further over to the right

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Lines too far left in printed Dorset. Correct now on Rockfax Digital.

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