Approach notes

Follow the road to the top of the hill on Portland. Nicodemus Knob is best accessed by taking the left turn at the roundabout and follow the road past the side of The Heights hotel and the view point car parks, until a right turn, just before it goes down hill leads to The Verne prison. Go past this and follow the track to a rusty gate, park here. Follow the fence eastwards until the pinnacle comes into view and an obvious footpath leads down towards it (5 mins).

The 1959 Wall, Knob Head, The Shaft and Knob End crags are accessed by following the track south from the gate until you come to a rock wall where the track turns to the left, this is The 1959 Wall (5 mins). A pair of staples on the right side of the wall allow a rope to be fixed to abseil (about 6m) into the small grassy bay of Knob Head. Escape back up this rope or top out any of the first three routes. The Shaft can be found by scrambling up the bank to the left of the wall and following a grassy gulley about two thirds of the way along the top of the crag. A pair of staples at the top of the crag allow an abseil rope to be placed to access the start of the routes, escape back up this. Knob End can be found by going left at the end of the gulley to where a path descends rightwards through bushes at the edge of the crag. The quarry below the crag is currently being used for stone crushing operations. Please use these climbs only when work is not going on, ie after 5.00pm Monday to Friday and at weekends.

Update: The Quarry floor below the cliffs is now being filled in and most of the 15m drop has gone, although currently still exists below Knob End. This means many of the routes can be accessed from the quarry floor if the initial track is followed until a right turn leads into the quarry.