UKH

Hi all,

I’m looking for some information about winter climbing in the Pyrenees. This is a couple of questions put into one post.

So far, my research has consisted of looking at the Pyrenees, Courses mixtes, neige et glace guidebook (https://www.camptocamp.org/books/115416/fr/pyrenees-courses-mixtes-neige-et...) and picking out routes which are feasible for me (looking at stuff at around D- and below). From what I can tell, most of the routes in that guidebook are close to the town of Panticosa on the Spanish side of the border or on the French side of the Pyrenees national park close to the town of Gavarnie-Gèdre. Does anyone here have any thoughts on how these places are to stay to be close to the climbing? Or are there any areas that I’ve missed that would be better? I’m aware there is also quite a lot of climbing in Andora as well but I haven’t found a list of climbs or much info on the internet what the climbing is like there.

The next question I have concerns guidebooks. As I have previously stated, most of my research has been based on Pyrenees, Courses mixtes but I have found three other guidebooks online that might be useful: Corredores del Pirineo – Pedraforca -Cadi-Cerdanya, Corredores del Pirineo -Caranca-Nuria-Ulldeter, and Corredores de Andora. Other than the Andora guidebook, I don’t really know which areas these books cover or how useful they are as guidebooks. Is anyone familiar with them? and if so, can they recommend which of these is worth getting? Or if there are any guidebooks that I’m missing, please let me know.

Thirdly, a lot of the routes that I’ve looked at seem to start at refuges. I’m not familiar with the refuges in the Pyrenees so I’m not familiar with how they work. Do they need to be booked? Do they require a sleeping bag, sleeping mat, and stove, and how much do they cost?

I would be grateful for any advice that anyone can give me on any of these questions. Furthermore, if you think there is something I’m missing or haven’t thought about, please let me know.

Looking forward to your answers.

The areas covered by Corredores del Pirineo – Pedraforca -Cadi-Cerdanya & Corredores del Pirineo -Caranca-Nuria-Ulldeter are in the titles, both are guides to areas in the east & on the Spanish side (although part of the Cerdanya is in France so maybe the guide also covers part of France). 

I've never climbed in the Pyrenees in winter but have ski toured a bit. Gavarnie is close to the routes in the Cirque de Gavarnie & has a CAF hostel nearby which might be an option for accomodation. The slightly larger town of Luz -St Arden (not checked spelling) is not far away but a bit further down the valley. Refuges are quite varied, some are un wardened, others are (depending on the season), https://www.gites-refuges.com/www/ is a good starting point for further information.

i cannot speak for the spanish refuges but most if not all of the french ones will be closed although they usually have a ' winter ' quarters which is accessible but with no facilities.

You can also try some research on camp to camp.

if you take a look at the local CAF websites (toulouse / foix etc ) then you will find their ' winter alpinism ' programme from which you can work out which routes they anticipate MIGHT be in - at the relevant time of year - and will give you the grade .  You can then research back to camp to camp.  

Many Spanish huts are wardened in the ski touring season, as are some of the French huts. For example I've just checked one at random & its open from early February to early May (https://refugedelaglere.ffcam.fr/ ).

Do you mean Luz Saint Sauveur? That's the main town in valley with gear shops, banks, supermarket and guides offices etc.

It's probably the best place to base yourself in the Gavarnie valley as it's the best supplied with the facilities above and most central for getting out to different areas assuming you have a car.

Luz Ardiden is just a tiny village stuck halfway up the side of the valley and only really much use as a base for skiing at the Luz Ardiden ski area.

Gedre would be another alternative base a bit further up the valley closer to Gavarnie. Smaller than Luz Saint Sauveur but still with a few shops etc. Gavanie itself is tiny with mostly tourist tat shops.

Regarding refuges, the set up is basically the same as in the Alps.

Many years since I was in Pyrenees in winter. The unwardened CAF huts I used all had at least a room open, often with damp mattreses and blankets. Definitely needed good sleeping bag and karrimat. The little huts probably labelled cabanes on the maps were very useful and usually had a sleeping platform.

Knew I should have checked, but yes I meant the larger one ( Luz Saint Sauveur ).

The CAF hut in Gavarnie is roadside, wardened, quite small, and busy.  From there, it's a 10-15 minute drive to the end of the road in Gav. Thereafter, it's 1:30 to 2 hours on foot the to the base of the Cirque de Gav.   If there's a lot of snow it's a battle on foot or snow shoes, with outstanding avalanche potential.  The Hotel de Cirque is fully closed in winter, and the end of the road in winter is some way downhill from there.

There is another hut  up near the Breche de Roland, but it's winter facilities only.   Access is probably possible from the Gav/Gedre ski centre, but I can't say I've looked.  Access from the Cirque would be a Very Big Day Out.

There's another big hut over on the Cirque de Troumousse.  That's closed in winter, but there is a winter hut over the road. Spartan, again.  It's a long drive up from the valley to the auberge and then a flog up the closed road.  The road is kept clear of snow by the owner of the auberge, who has an ancient tractor with a snow plough.  Not sure if the auberge is really open in winter, although we did blag a cup of coffee there.

My interest in winter has been in ice climbing at Gav and Troumousse - which has involved returning to somewhere warm, lower level and hospitable every evening.  I can't comment on the viability of using the high huts.  I've seen no signs of anyone using them, for what that's worth

Hi George

About 30 years ago I climbed Els Encantats (via an AD alpine climb) in the Spanish Pyrenees in  early April. There was very deep snow and it was very cold. Also no one else was around. We hitched all the way from Barcelona and stayed in a mountain hut with the guardian and his dog. I think the hut was named after a man. I cannot remember who.We were the only visitors there. It was very beautiful and unspoilt then. Sorry to not be more helpful but I would def go for it if I were you. I would think the Arierge would be good too.

Thankyou for all your suggestions. From the sounds of things, basing myself in Luz Saint Sauveur is probably best for my first trip out there.

Hi George,

I did a bunch of PD/AD stuff around Gavarnie one snowy easter years ago (so some of this may be out of date). Might be easier than you're looking for but the traverse of the skyline of Gavarnie Cirque was brill, not hard if you dodged the vertical bits), the Vignemale circuit had a short AD bit on the Petit Vignemale, Monte Perdido was easy fun and a couple of aretes in the Néouvielle were ADish. Used Kev Reynolds' Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees, but mostly just followed my nose (and the map). The Sarradets Hut below the Breche de Roland had an open winter room (sleeping platforms, no facilities), easily reached from the Val d'Ossue, and there was a basic refuge hut in the Val de Sausset. Write up with pics on my blog at www.iainshillwanderings.co.uk 

Great place, have fun,

Iain