Ice routes - number of screws ?

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 Swiss Tony 04 Feb 2018

How many ice screws do you need for a full multi pitch ice route ? planning my first grade v route such as smiths , curtain or Hadrian’s and could do with knowing how many are needed ?

done plenty of grade iii & iv and never needed more than 6 screws but they not been multipitch ice 

im guessing 3 for each belay & another 4/5 runners ? So is 10/ 11 enough ?

also I’m assuming point 5 and the grade v gully’s don’t need as many as they will have rock pro ? 

What’s your rack preference for these multipitch ice routes ?

 Alex Riley 04 Feb 2018
In reply to Swiss Tony:

I would say 8-10 is fine.

 climber34neil 04 Feb 2018
In reply to Swiss Tony:

I  think 10 would be plenty, would also make sure that you have some in different lengths for belays etc

 Mr. Lee 04 Feb 2018
In reply to Swiss Tony:

Can't remember how many screws I used to carry on the Ben. For multipitch water ice I typically use around 14 total. Two at the belays so that's 10 runners. I use 60m ropes. If the climbing is close to my limit or the ice isn't great then I sometimes bring a couple more to ensure I get a full pitch climbed. 

1
 Webster 04 Feb 2018
In reply to Swiss Tony:

You will be in for a shock if you hope/expect to find 3 good screws per belay on the ben! bulldogs are often more usefull/reassuring than screws on the snow ice... think I carried 8 screws on hadrians wall and definitely didn't run out, even on an 80m pitch! as for belays, if you find 1 good ice srew runner every 10m you are doing very well!

smiths is a bit different, tends to be a bit more water ice about so you are more likely to belay off of good screws and place several before committing to the crux. that said, still don't 'expect' to find good screw placements.

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 Goucho 04 Feb 2018
In reply to Swiss Tony:

> How many ice screws do you need for a full multi pitch ice route ? planning my first grade v route such as smiths , curtain or Hadrian’s and could do with knowing how many are needed ?

> done plenty of grade iii & iv and never needed more than 6 screws but they not been multipitch ice 

> im guessing 3 for each belay & another 4/5 runners ? So is 10/ 11 enough ?

> also I’m assuming point 5 and the grade v gully’s don’t need as many as they will have rock pro ? 

> What’s your rack preference for these multipitch ice routes ?

Talking specifically about Scottish winter and in particular Ben Nevis, I don't think I've ever placed more than 3 ice screws on any pitch, or more than 1 on a belay.

1

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