UKH

Hi all,

Had a big accident last weekend whilst speedflying leaving me with a compression fracture to my L2, L3 and L4 and a fractured ankle. Looking ahead a couple months down the line I’m wondering what my return to climbing could look like. Has anyone here who has fractured vertebrae (particularly lumbar back region) had any issues with harness especially with big falls following a back injury? I’m 25 so being young and fit the doctors expect a pretty good recovery especially because I didn’t need any surgery but I’m a bit anxious about the long term effects.

Cheers

In reply to Hard Hawk:

Had a compression fracture of my L1 following a big fall.

It wasn’t a massive problem. Basically felt like a sore back that took while to settle down. Back being active after a couple of months if I remember.

In reply to Hard Hawk:

Sorry to hear about your recent accident, I had a big climbing accident in June 2016 aged 60 with many broken/fractured bones including 8 vertebrae fractures L2-9. I spent a couple of months in a spinal brace and was back climbing 4 months later in October of the same year with limited left arm reach due to shoulder injuries. I haven’t had any problems with wearing a harness though I haven’t taken many falls certainly no big ones as I don’t push the grades now I’m 68.

I wish you well with your recovery, at 25 I don’t think you have to be anxious but do get a good physio and do the exercises they give you religiously. 

In reply to Hard Hawk:

I had a moderate crush of T8 about ten years  ago (aged about fifty).  It took a couple of months to get properly mobile again.  It's not so much waiting for the bone damage to repair, as getting the muscles sorted out (spasms, weakness, change in length etc.).

I was on painkillers but weaned myself off them after a 5 or 6 weeks.  I started baby-steps in climbing after 10 wks but it took another month to regain some skill and confidence.

A couple of sessions with a physio will help loosen up your back but they won't consider touching you until you've been signed off by the hospital.

I decided this was a good time to start yoga.  That helped my climbing more than the crush took away.  Flexibility, core strength and balance being the things that helped me.

Oh, and i wouldn't try driving for two months!  You'll be surprised just how much twisting you do getting into the driver's seat.  Looking over your shoulder will be harder.  And you'll feel paranoid about having another accident!

In reply to Hard Hawk:

I had a 50% compression fracture on L3 aged 29 and an ankle fracture , medial malleolus, at 61.

Both took a few months before I was back climbing outside, ( climbed indoors with plastic boot shell over weight bearing cast, GP told me to exercise ).

I felt too fragile for bouldering and alpinism for a few years with the back.  Clear falls into a harness no bother.

The ankle still has limited mobility despite physio exercises but doesnt stop me walking as far or high as the rest of my legs allow. Not sure if ankle up to front pointing on ice.

Edit, expect a better recovery than the doctors initially forecast. My theory is that its standard procedure to encourage you to do the physio.

Lots of previous threads on here about injuries and recovery rates and a grand UKC tradition  of recoveries outstripping pessimistic medical prospects.

In reply to Hard Hawk:

Sorry to hear about your accident. Best wishes for a full recovery. I decked out about 23 years ago, aged 27 and fractured 2 vertebrae (T10+12). Took about 10 weeks to return to the wall, but I've made a full recovery and have continued climbing ever since. Obviously plenty of physio required. The only long term consequence is my head game. I've favoured crack climbing since my fall, as always protectable. I generally avoid run outs and slabs, but over the years I've forced myself to confront my fears and have led routes like 3 pebble slabs. I'm also a whole time firefighter and my accident hasn't caused me any long term issues at work. Best wishes.

In reply to Hard Hawk:

I had a compressed fracture of three vertebrae when I was about 15. After a few months in a brace I was up and about again, wasn't offered any physio.

I slipped a disc at university, and again about a decade later, and again another one five years after that.

After finding a really good physio I got my back trouble sorted, in my late 30s/early 40s.

I'll never know for sure if it was all related, but if I was you I would find a really good physio for the rehab.

In reply to Hard Hawk:

Had a 40% compression fracture of L1 May last year bouldering. Started climbing gently around 15 weeks after. One of my main concerns wasn't just the fall impact, but the effect of talking a fall belaying. Luckily I have some superb partners who took increasing TR falls to let me see how it felt.

Lead falls for me don't seem to be an issue as the harness is not on that vertebrae. As mentioned above, my head bouldering is the issue. I find I'm a bit reticent doing an iffy move high up.

I made sure I did loads of core exercises to put strength back (🙂) to help as I subsequently found out I had mild osteopenia which probably exacerbated the injury.

But I am climbing/bouldering so just feel your way and you will!

Chris

Edit: And I'd get even stronger if it just stopped raining!!

In reply to Wimlands:

Quite amazed at a couple of months. I was told it would be 12 weeks before doing anything serious. Physio don't even entertain people before 12 weeks, so fair play! Do you have any long term aches? I find I get tired especially standing.

In reply to Hard Hawk:

Good luck with your recovery. After ‘colliding’ with a planet (twice) last year it left me with a compressed #L4, prolapsed L4 disc, L4 nerve impingement, displaced #coccyx and joy of joys some sacral nerve damage. Initial recovery approximately 10 - 12 weeks (although the nerve damage has other implications). then had second encounter with said planet getting fitness back which caused other problems. Net result,although recovery fairly straightforward (plenty of physio), has left me with much reduced core strength. in my 70s now so age may be catching up with recovery. I refused surgery suggestions by the consultant ( who was very good with a great sense of humour). Finally a huge thanks to the NHS absolutely brilliant throughout. No idea what happened in the second encounter other than found unconscious at the side of the road and my bike a tangled heap. Two holes in my head and rotator cuff tear.

your youth will certainly be on your side. 

In reply to cwarby:

I can only presume mine was a minor compression fracture. I can remember the scan showing “crumbling” round the edge of the vertebrae. I fell 8/9m so very happy to walk away with just that.

I get back aches now but not in that area…

In reply to Hard Hawk:

I fractured a couple including L3 aged 50ish, 4 wks in hospital then discharged with a brace. Had a few other injuries at the same time so took a while to 'fully' recover. Started roped climbing 3 yrs later & haven't had any problems with a harness - biggest whipper probably an overhang at Ratho though, not outdoors.

In reply to Hard Hawk:

I compressed T12 and L1. 2.5 months in a brace just walking and then lots of yoga. Was seconding again about 3 months in and leading when confidence came back a little later. I was lucky and the compression was not wedged. As others said the muscle damage is what takes time to recover. No long term issues hope you get a good recovery too. 
 

In reply to Hard Hawk:

Not a compression fracture but a closed fracture (I think that’s the right term) and mine was T11 and 12 so further up, but I sustained a spinal fracture in my early 20s from a ground fall, about 10 years ago. Needed surgery to bolt it back into place.

Some degree of back pain persisted for quite a while, but wasn’t too problematic. I think I was climbing gently after about 4 months, then life got in the way so it was more like 9 months before I properly got back climbing. No issues other than some aches and pains sometimes. But I think that’s partly because the metalwork that’s still in my back means one section doesn’t move and I presume that means certain body positions put more force on the vertebrae above and below the fixed section.

The biggest impact was on my confidence falling, particularly on trad gear. That’s been surmountable but has required some regular conscious practice otherwise it starts to get in the way a bit still. 

In reply to Hard Hawk: My experience and takeaway from a broken back and ankle plus a number of other breaks over the years is any work you can do now in your recovery and return to activity phase is time well spent in the long term. While I’ve not read any papers on the topic my experience and anecdote from others is that you can limit/reduce future problems plus it is good for the mind. In that initial recovery/bone healing phase all the usual stuff around good diet (probably some supplements), rest, and doing any physio you are allowed/recommended is key. I was also told to stay off alcohol☹️😏. I’ve mailed you with more info.

In reply to Hard Hawk:

I had an accident that completely wedge fractured L5 to the point of having it removed and replaced with a titanium cage and a couple of SS bolts. Long recovery for me but with a completely new L5 (bone growth over the whole thing) I started climbing and am seriously enjoying it. Nothing like your situation but bone growth will probably make the vertebrae stronger. The bigger problem might be compressed discs but your body will tell you about that pretty quickly and discs recover pretty well. You have little to worry about as long as you take it easy and listen to your body - stuff can hurt a bit but as long as you're OK the next day generally you'll be OK. Progressive increases over time is key.

In reply to Hard Hawk:

Commiserations. I fractured L2 (plus 3 ribs, wrist, collar bone and a bone in my hand) in a soloing fall aged 28. Very nearly much worse , missed a pointy boulder by inches. I was able to walk up small hills after a month, decent ones after two, including easy winter climbs and bits of scrambling. It was 6 months before I got back on proper rock climbs (and alpine stuff), and my head was shot for another 3 months after that. Been pretty active since (though never climbed all that hard, lower E grades at most). My back hasn't given me any long term effects on the hill (sitting at a computer for any length of time hurts but plenty people have that problem). I have had to stop bouldering sessions occasionally after impacts - once I've jarred it I know it's only going to get worse. I had a couple of courses of physio and stretching exercises helped a lot. Hope your healing process goes well.