Rope Exclusively for Indoor Climbing

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 teoglez 16 Mar 2024

 I'm looking to buy my first indoor rope. I've read every thread, I swear. The consensus is that your first rope should be cheap and thick.  

The cheapest I could find from a reputable brand was this Tendon 9.7mm (would get it in 35m). 

Following that up slightly in price would be: 

Black Diamond 9.9 (35m)  

Edelrid Boa 9.8mm (40m) - Could consider the jump to the Boa Gym if it's worth it  

Beal Virus 10mm (50m) 

Or try a Sterling such as the Phenom 10.3mm (40m) or Slim Gym 10.1mm (30m)  

I believe those are my best options without spending too much. I don't want to break the bank as I also want an outdoor rope soon, so should I just get the cheap Tendon? 

 CameronDuff14 16 Mar 2024
In reply to teoglez:

In the end it comes down to personal preference. The general consensus is skinnier ropes (most would consider 9.3mm and below skinny for a single rope) handle better and are lighter, at the cost of durability and cost. Also some devices (especially things like GriGri, Camp Matik etc.) work better for skinnier ropes - the details for your device  should be printed somewhere on it so make sure you get something compatible.

The other major factor is dry treatment. Obviously this makes the rope waterproof (to some extent) but also helps to keep out dirt, has better abrasion resistance and handles better. Again this comes at the expense of cost. Check out the 'Hard is easy' youtube channel, there's loads of analysis of how different treatments work.

Also consider if you even need two separate ropes, loads of folk use one for both! Though I understand having a 'nice' rope for outside that you keep nice and a cheap one that can get used up quicker. 

 OP teoglez 16 Mar 2024
In reply to CameronDuff14:

Thanks! Yea I use a grigri which says it can handle 8.5-11 mm, and I planned on going maybe halfway or nearing 10. Since it’s my first rope and I’m barely learning to lead I think a thicker rope would last me a bit longer. 
 

And yea, it’s totally possible to have both. I’m willing to compromise a little bit in order to keep them separate but if the budget doesn’t allow that, I’ll have to choose one great one. 

 bpmclimb 16 Mar 2024
In reply to teoglez:

FWIW I would go for the 35m Tendon 9.7mm as a dedicated indoor rope, and later on buy a 50m (or longer, depending on height of your local crags) single rope for outdoors, maybe slightly skinnier, and perhaps with a dry treatment.

If you decide to buy the same rope for indoors and out, bear in mind that the extra slack is a bit of a nuisance indoors. Quite a few climbers I've seen using 50m + ropes indoors don't use a bag or tarp, and aren't particularly careful about keeping all the slack tidy, so the unused rope picks up dirt and wear (and can be annoying to other wall users).

 OP teoglez 16 Mar 2024
In reply to bpmclimb:

Yea, my area calls for at least a 60m rope, which is also a reason why I would like to have two as that would be a long rope to haul haha. And definitely dry treatment. Cheers 

 PaulW 16 Mar 2024
In reply to teoglez:

I would go for something 30-35m, 9.5 to 10mm or there about. 

cheap is good from a reputable brand.

don't overthink it, a wall rope is a consumable item, it will wear out quicker than you wish if you climb indoors a lot.

 Andypeak 16 Mar 2024
In reply to teoglez:

Personally I'd get a decathlon 35m wall rope for £50 unless you can finds a bargain elsewhere. 

 OP teoglez 16 Mar 2024
In reply to Andypeak:

There is Decathlon in my area but surprisingly their rope is more expensive than even BD in some cases!

 wbo2 17 Mar 2024
In reply to teoglez: I have an indoor rope as I use,a 70 outside , and it's a pain indoors.  

I have the 40m BD rope, its very good.  You don't need a dry treated rope inside, but I wouldn't be able to use a 35 as my most often used wall is 17m vertical.  How high is your local wall?

 Sean Kelly 17 Mar 2024
In reply to teoglez:

Absolute bargain at GoOutdoors last week. A 60mtr Beal Cobra 8.6mm for....£89.95!

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 CameronDuff14 17 Mar 2024
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Isn't the cobra a half rope?

Good deal regardless!

 Subgenre 17 Mar 2024
In reply to teoglez:

The Beal Cobra 8.6 is a half rope and not suitable for use as an indoor single rope. 

The Beal Karma is a decent indoor rope with a 9.8 Diameter that plays well with Grigris. 

The sweet spot for the Grigri 2 is 8.9-10.5mm role diameter, I find about 9.5 works best, especially with non dry treated/bonded ropes.

Post edited at 11:12
 wbo2 17 Mar 2024
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Given that the Cobra is too long and too thin to recommend as a single indoor rope do you have a recommended way to squash it so it's fatter and shorter?

 Sean Kelly 17 Mar 2024
In reply to wbo2:

I was just pointing out the good deal for a half rope, not suggesting that for single roping!

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 Luke90 17 Mar 2024
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Given that you were responding to a relative beginner, it probably would have been helpful to make that clear at the time.

In reply to teoglez:

Alpinetrek has the Mammut Zopa 9.7mm for £56 for 30m. 
I have a 60m version and it's really a great rope, handles well, a very suitable diameter. 

 Eduardo2010 18 Mar 2024
In reply to stefangutnickallen:

Petzl contact, 9.8mm, 30m, £78 on Dick's Climbing. Handles nicely.

 Luke90 18 Mar 2024
In reply to teoglez:

I just won a good wall rope in a friendly competition at my local wall. Unfortunately it's only 40m long, and the main wall I climb at needs a 50m (the same wall that gave out the prize, oddly, think they must be trying to get rid of me!). So I'm thinking I'll sell it, if you're interested.

It's a Mammut 9.9mm Gym Workhorse Classic. Cheapest I can find it online in that length is £95 from Mammut themselves. I'd sell it for 10% less than the cheapest you can find it online, so £85 as far as I can make out.

https://www.mammut.com/uk/en/products/2010-04310/9-9-gym-workhorse-classic-...

They say it's very beefy and should last well. I haven't got any personal experience to back that up for this particular rope but I've always rated Mammut as a manufacturer.

 harvmarv 22 Mar 2024
In reply to teoglez:

I am a new climber but was recommended this https://www.thehatt.co.uk/shop/product/dmm-statement-rope-10mm/

Recommended by my tree surgeon friend and I've had no issues with it. Feels much nicer to handle than any top ropes at the gyms I've been to.

I've been learning to lead on it and I love it. Light and treated. Also nice to support a Welsh brand

I think as long as it's got the relevant certificates and a reputable brand, you'll be fine!

Post edited at 15:50
 Iamgregp 22 Mar 2024
In reply to Eduardo2010:

Yeah my main outdoor rope is a Petzl contact, handles great.  Lovely rope that.  Went fluffy quite quickly but that doesn't really bother me.

 Hooo 22 Mar 2024
In reply to teoglez:

For a wall rope I just get whatever is on special offer, as long as it's from someone reputable. I really don't think it's worth getting anything fancy for indoors. Sign up to the promotional emails from the usual suppliers and if a good deal pops up, grab one.

TLDR, I'd go for the Tendon. 


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