UKH

Hi all,

I'm heading up to Clovullin (north bank of Loch Linnhe) for a week or so in July August - big group of us, we'll hike, we'll take a few Munros, we'll hang out. Some of us also climb - none have trad experience, but we've top-roped on Southern Sandstone etc.

Midges aside, is there decent top rope potential in the area. I've seen one forum mention of Polldubh Crags, Glen Nevis trad routes being top-rope-able, but no more info than that. Is it worth taking gear or shall we just stick to the hiking?

Why not treat it as an opportunity to start leading?

Loads of nice easy routes at polldubh to lead and you'd need some gear to set up a top rope anyway

There will not be bolts at the top of routes for setting up anchors, like you get in some of the southern sandstone venues. So you would definitely want to think about whether you've got the right gear (and knowledge) to safely setup top ropes at trad venues. Assuming you do, Polldubh crags may have a few suitable routes (but it's got lots of multipitch routes which you'd obviously want to avoid). If you are in a position to learn how to trad climb, then Polldubh would be an excellent venue to visit for easy routes to get practicing on.

Do any of you have any sport climbing experience? I think there are a few crags towards Oban which may be of interest if so.

I hope it doesn't come across as gatekeep-y, I just wouldn't want to hear about an accident where someone didn't know how to safely climb at a crag and it could have been prevented.

Hope you have a great trip!

A lot of routes at Polldubh can be top roped. You will need slings for the trees.

Seconded. Big group, so chip in for a guide for a couple of days?

A couple of the 'usual top rope' suspects are 

1) Tear (HS - one hard move) - SW Buttress. Useful to have a spare rope (static) of about 15m (a very safe nice lead and then you could just belay multiple followers up as it's a walk off and back down). 

2) Go left and then up from lower Pinnacle (Chalky Wall) there is a small crag that has trees for top roping above it. It's not listed in any books but I think is known as 'Outward Bound' crag for obvious reasons. It's got some v diff ish lines which you can make harder 

3) Keep out of people's way and set up a rope above Sheep Fank. Some VS/HVS lines to play with. Awkward to rig (might need a belay into the trees from the right if not confident)

4) Promises on Dundee is a lovely HS with access and a good belay for 'top' roping (not bottom roping - although you might be able to) don't polish it up too much!

I agree with the leading comment - Right Wall on Styx (VD) is doable in one pitch with a 60m rope. The Gutter (D) is the classic starter crag which gets more interesting as you get higher but is definitely multipitch. Abseil to get off unless you lead the very nice last pitch and make an insecure scramble walk off.

I'd support the recommendation of getting a guide as you'll get so much more out of Polldubh that way!

Tim

Midges yes. Consider midge nets, whether climbing, or walking.

I'm looking to see if I can get some training in before then, but having never even seconded trad, I certainly wouldn't want to lead from scratch - as Edshakey suggests, that seems like a recipe for an accident.

Thanks for the steer - I and the other climbers in the group have indoor sport experience plus some outoor top rope.

Why. It's not rocket science. Genuinely. If me and my mate could teach ourselves to lead aged 14 with a book,  I'm sure you could do it.

Is your accommodation on the other side of the Corran ferry? Could add some logistical issues getting anywhere.

That's not a big problem, a lot of people live around there and work in Fort William.

I’ve a friend on that side, he’s always complaining.

Also is there a local discount or something like that?

Is that because of the breakdowns?

Seems to running ok (at the moment!).

I wrote a reply before your edit.

Books of tickets are a lot cheaper, perhaps 25% of the standard fare.