UKH

Anyone got an opinion on best headtorches, for night bouldering/ traversing. 

Those Petzl IKO ones look good, and seem ok, as I wouldn’t be wearing a helmet. 

selling a petzl myo if interested

Any decent headtorch will do to be honest, but if you're going regularly get one that can be charged by phone cable, so that you can charge it in the car. Screwfix do really good portable lamps under the Erbauer brand. Pretty cheap, really bright, good battery life but more importantly can take a battering.

Petzl tikka! Cheap and cheerful and when you inevitably loose it in the dark it's not the end of the world! And I like having 2 lamps (Screwfix, erbauer) 

I mainly like having a headtorch for the top outs and getting back down. Too many times I've topped out and thought "bugger, I can't see!"

The only time I’ve used a headtorch for climbing is with my Petzl Swift RL. For me, the headlamp changing brightness automatically was amazing and meant I barely noticed the fact it was so dark.
 

Other times I've found a bright light to be annoying when looking at something close up so the reaction light was great.

I'm a fan of my black diamond onsight. It's got a battery at the back and the lamp itself is tiny which means I'm not always knocking it into the rock on cheek-scraping moves. 

Hope Vision R2

If you can stretch a second light on the ground helps, or you’re only lighting up the spot your head’s pointing at.

Reactive lighting is the way to go otherwise you'll blind yourself constantly when you look at the rock in front of you.

The only other thing to consider is how far it projects from your head as it's easy to catch on the rock if it's particularly bulky.

My go to was always an older generation Petzl Nao which was great especially in conjunction with a couple of lamps (but someone nicked it) I now have a significantly brighter running torch from silva that is useless for climbing as it doesn't react.

You don't need anything special, a cheap LED head torch and a cheap battery work/site lamp or two.

Whatever you get, do make sure wherever you're going you're not blundering into and an ongoing access mess. Night climbing on or near private property seems to be a particular flashpoint for access disputes.

jk

Anything without a heavy battery pack on the back. I've got a torch that slides off the back of my head everytime it gets steep so I end up using the less bright lighter one instead. A couple of cheap rechargable work lights (mine were £14 each at B and Q) make a huge difference too but you'll still want a headtorch for topping out.

I have a few headtorches and prefer the Iko Core for bouldering.  It's light, balances really well and plenty powerful enough.  I've bought a spare battery but haven't needed it.  I also carry one of the tiny Petzl ones as a backup.

I also have a couple of LED work lights.  I'd say they're pretty indispensable.

Alpkit Quark allows you to adjust the beam width, so you can use it as a flood light.