UKH

Is the IFSC App working?

I can only seem to see lists of competitors registered for each competition via a bit of green text "REGISTRATION".

I can't figure out how to see scores of the various rounds. The grey text "Live Results" doesn't seem to do anything... What am I missing?

I’ve never used the ap but this page seems to be working and easier to get the live results than the homepage  https://ifsc.results.info/#/

Thanks. Yeah, I'd found that but the app was useful for a bit of "dual screening" while working...

You're probably not missing anything, that app is notoriously poor.

It used to work fairly well in so much as I could see scores. Now is appears to be pretty useless.

I've got the webpage linked above running an that seems to be updating the scores of mens lead quallies just fine.

Anyone know how they work out a ranking number from the score for each route?

The some how seem to weight one route over the other, I assume based on the perceived difficulty of each route,

The rules (https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/rules) are pretty opaque but it appears that for qualification the ordering of just based on your rank for each route, not the hold number you reached. The overall ranking for both routes is the geometric mean of the two scores (the two ranks multiplied together and then square-rooted). So if you were 2nd and 5th, you get sqrt(2 x 5)=3.333 points, which is better than 3rd and 4th which gives 3.464.

It also mentions "fractional ranking" which is not defined anywhere, but there are similar concepts elsewhere in the rules for dealing with people getting the same score. I think it means that if several people get the same position, you actually all get the average score of the positions they take up. So one person getting 4th gets 4 points, but if people do they both get (4+5)/2=4.5. If 3 people are first they get (4+5+6)/3=5. Of course, it might be geometric mean instead of arithmetic but I can't find a proper definition in the IFSC rules

Interesting. To be honest I’d need to think about it a bit harder to see why just adding the two rankings and dividing by two wasn’t super good enough.

On the plus side my climbing partner had already sussed out that the bug in the app corrects itself by simply scrolling to the top of the page!

I think they use multiplying rather than adding because it makes one mistake less damaging. It you get first and 30th, that gives you sqrt(30)=5-and-a-bit which is better than someone who is 6th and 6th (sqrt(36)=6). If you average, you get 15.5 points which is far worse than someone who gets 6th and 6th.

It also means that there's more separation in the scores as there are fewer combinations of scores that come out with the same result. Adding, you get the same score for e.g 26+26, 25+27, 24+28 etc etc. For multiplying these all give different scores.

Cheers. That explanation saved me switching my brain on.