Good easy trad crags Shropshire

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 Will Hempstead 26 Apr 2023

Where’s the best venue for an afternoon of easy trad in Shropshire (I’ll be in Wellington area)? I would love to check out Nesscliffe but I’ve got a partially repaired broken leg so keeping it sub E1 for now. 
 

Cheers, Will 

In reply to Will Hempstead:

Kevin's is the correct answer! I've got a pdf copy of the guide, if you want it I can email it to you. Cheers, Tom 

 Andy Clarke 26 Apr 2023
In reply to kevin stephens:

Pontesford is currently bird-banned due to nesting peregrines. Will probably last until mid-July.

Post edited at 19:50
 David Bowler 26 Apr 2023
In reply to Will Hempstead:

Ippikins Rock has lots of easy stuff.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ippikins_rock-1067/

 Andy Clarke 26 Apr 2023
In reply to Will Hempstead:

If it's a reasonably warm day and hasn't rained for a couple of days, you could head to  Ippikins Rock. There's a reasonable collection of easy routes on the main crag. Personally, I've got a good deal of affection for the place - but I'm a local. It's something of an acquired taste!

In reply to Andy Clarke:

Ippikins it is then. Love a bit of esoterica. Is there a guidebook / would anyone be willing to send me a few pics of the topo? 

 Andy Clarke 26 Apr 2023
In reply to Will Hempstead:

There is a guidebook - the iconic West Midlands Rock by Doug Kerr. But it doesn't have a topo. If you're going to the main crag I should just use  UKC. The climbs are arranged in the order you'll encounter them, and mostly well described.  The database also includes a number of more recent routes that aren't in the guide.

ETA: I doubt there'll ever be a photo topo of Ippi, since the forest is only about ten feet from the crag! 

Post edited at 20:33
 pec 26 Apr 2023
In reply to Will Hempstead:

> Ippikins it is then. Love a bit of esoterica. Is there a guidebook / would anyone be willing to send me a few pics of the topo? 

I went to Ippikins 2 or 3 years ago and thought it was pretty good for somewhere esoteric.

I took some cragshots and drew the routes on them with the intention of posting them on here but never got round to it. Your post has promted me to do that so I've just uploaded them now.

Don't know how long it will take before they appear on the site though so I could email them to you if they haven't appeared soon. I'll check this thread later this evening.

 TobyA 26 Apr 2023
In reply to pec:

> Don't know how long it will take before they appear on the site though so I could email them to you if they haven't appeared soon. I'll check this thread later this evening.

I was going to go approve them for you, but I can't find the moderation page any more! I must say I don't spend much time in the photo galleries these days, so perhaps they've taken the volunteer photo moderation facility away? Or perhaps it's so long since I did any, they've taken it away from me.

Anyway, I look forward to seeing the  Ippikins Rock topos as well - long time since I've been there. Thanks for making them.

 Andy Hemsted 27 Apr 2023
In reply to Will Hempstead:

Another Hemsted at Ippikins? Great! It's one of my favourite places for a half-day of top-roping on my own.

It's just a pity that you don't spell your surname correctly.......

Post edited at 07:57
 Fat Bumbly2 27 Apr 2023
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Is the blue paint still there.  I once introduced a group of fellow National Trust workers to a Brocken spectre there.  From that time the thing was referred to as a Brock Inspector. We removed a few of the conifers that were growing at the base of the crag.  Shame the pub went.

Back then I would have been in a spot of bother to even suggest climbing there, but things mellowed and I did manage a trip in the end. Remember startling a tourist with a video camera who obviously did not look down.

Post edited at 09:04
 Andy Clarke 27 Apr 2023
In reply to Fat Bumbly2:

The blue paint is still there, on True Blue (HVS 4c). It's a good landmark to orientate yourself by when you arrive. The pub has actually re-opened, though the hours were limited last time I looked. I do love the idea of a Brock Inspector!

To the OP: if you approach from the Much Wenlock direction, it's probably easiest to drive to the pub, do a U-turn, drive back to the first pull off (room for a couple of cars) then walk back about 100m to the path that leads down to the crag. Although there's a grassy area here, I'd be wary of parking on it in case the farmer wants access to the field.

​​ETA: short video of me highballing True Blue, which marks the start of the main crag proper:

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid02mfPJAJayE2DGrbJnMbZCekFP...

Post edited at 09:25
 Andy Clarke 27 Apr 2023
In reply to pec:

Your topos have appeared now. Nice work.

 pec 27 Apr 2023
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Hopefully they'll be useful to people in the absence of a guidebook.

The topos are all of the main area and the numbers 1 to 4 go left to right. They appear in reverse order in my gallery.

Not all routes are shown but they should be identifiable from the ukc logbook descriptions relative to the routes that are shown.  

Post edited at 12:08

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