UKH

I’m mainly a boulderer and have only done limited sport climbing outdoors.  This year, I’m thinking about setting myself some targets based around sport climbing.  This has me wondering about ethics and tactics…

If I arrive at a route, stick the draws in and work the route all day, with rest periods, how does that sit with other climbers who may also want to get on the route?

Do you let other parties have a go while you rest?  How do you balance working towards an ultimate red point attempt and not being an inconsiderate annoyance to others?

Absolutely fine to do that, just make sure anyone else who is there and look like they want to climb the route is welcome to do so on your draws.  Normally people will ask if they want to get on something that has draws in anyway.

If you're trying hard to work a route and you're on there for quite some time that's fine, people will be understanding but just try and be considerate... For example if someone who is really strong wants to quickly climb the route as a warmup, go ahead and let them get that done before you spend an hour working it...

Just let them use your draws... simples...

Don't leave a rope on it while you are resting, don't camp too close to the bottom of the route, be forthcoming with offering other people the route (and use of your draws). 

You just share the route with anyone else at the crag. When you’re not on the route it’s fair game to anyone else.

I find most people are sympathetic to you and your proper redpoint efforts.

On the other hand some people are like moths to a flame when the draws are already in a route!

Y'know it's exactly these kinds of conversations that are one of the things I love about sort climbing... Starts off as a "can I use your draws?" conversation, then you're sharing beta, encouragement and laughs, next thing you know you're going for beers and dinner and swapping numbers...

I've honestly made so many really good friends from this starting point. 

Slightly off topic, but good crag etiquette - 

Make sure you brush any tick marks off the route when you're done at the end of the session.

There's no harm in giving the holds a good brush as well when you're done. 

This! 

Your redpoint isn't to be done at the expense of someone else's onsight. Clean up  

I'm pretty sure my successful redpont of Yosemite Wall was at least partly spurred on by the other guy who'd been working it that day saying he was about to strip his draws. I definitely wouldn't have done it that day if I'd had to stick my draws in it before another redpoint.

People are generally pretty easy going about sharing routes and draws but it's good to communicate. Be clear with each other about your expectations - are you going up for a RP or are you working it, how long do you expect to be on it or be resting at the bottom etc. It's a process of negotiation and compromise but I've always found it really friendly and rewarding, as Iamgregp says, it's often a good chance to swap beta, support each other and even have some friendly competition. Be aware at some crags (Malham particularly) you'll also be negotiating with people on adjacent routes that may share clips or belays with yours.

Does anyone know what the green up arrow & the down arrow means on each post?

They're random buttons. Don't seem to have much meaning at times. Supposed to be like and dislike. Interpret at your own risk. 

Only other thing to add would be ask before giving beta if you're trying a route with someone.  As others have said just be aware of how many others are interested in the route (and how many other options they have at the crag) - hogging the crags most popular route during a busy weekend is probably a bit anti-social.

When you are projecting a route (or warming up on someone else's project) clean key holds and sequences every time you lower off. Takes a couple of minutes and maximises everyone's chances. 🙂