UKH

Hi,

I have a nagging finger injury for 2 year now in my right ring finger. Initially it has started on a crimpy route and it gradually got worse until I had to take some time off and ease back to climbing gradually. But as I started climibing on my limit again and try hard the pain and swelling comes back and need to take back.

So I went to a hand surgeon recently and they did an ultrasound of my right finger and they found a 50% FDP tendon rupture in zone 2-3 area ( upper side of palm). My handsurgeon suggested he can open it up and see what it is like  he could even trim down the edges or make a full repair. He is not specialized in climbing injuries so I asked for some other opinion and I got in contact with Prof.Dr.Volker Schöffl, MHBA who suggested a full repair he said  "I am very positive that it can be repaired and heal very well". 

I have tried to search for some cases with ruptured FDP amongst climbers but cant really find anything like this, most of the injuries are pulley injuries. So if anyone had some similar injuries in the past or knows someone who had please get in touch. I would like to ask how was their recovery and how long did it take to get back into climbing?

If anyone interested there is a pic here of the scan: http://beni.noip.me/~beni/fdp/fdp_tear.png

Thanks,

Beni

I haven't had a partial FDP injury/repair... 

That's a tricky one maybe because if a complete rupture then of course you'd have the repair. I think if it was me I would have it repaired as I'm active and a climber, but it may be different if you/I/the individual led a more sedentary lifestyle...

As regards rehab/recovery you'll follow a set protocol, wear a splint for ?6 weeks (the norm where I've worked) that might involve early active exercises to prevent scar tethering (don't confuse this with thinking you will be able to use it) and generally can start to use it at 6 weeks (unlikely climbing), full strength aim is 12 weeks post surgery. 

The key is a good consultant and good therapy, following the advice post surgery . Good luck

Yeah, I will get it fixed and do a full repair, which is basically the same outcome as it was fully ruptured as they can't just fix the 50% which is broken.

Yeah I have read similar recovery times 6 weeks splint no active movement really, than rehab, than after 3 month can climb again but i think it means easy climbing and I think it takes time to try harder again..

Thanks for your reply

You will find people with experience of Volker Schoffl on ukbouldering